Manaslu 2009: Andalucia Summit story

Manaslu for Andalucia

14 large mountains on the planet, with more that 20 summits of 8,000 meters.  Manaslu is the eighth elevation in this cast of 14 mountains that in his day R. Messner managed to climb for the first time with no oxygen and that today is a challenge for many climbers.  The female Andalucian team has achieved the seventh eight-thousand for Andalucia.  A historical success for the Andalucian sport and mountain climbing.

On May 19 at 9:25 hours, Tamara and Inma reached the summit of Manaslu of 8,163 meters.  The Andalucians ended with success a work that began two years ago.  The two climbers pushed their teamwork to the limits of mountain climbing, to reach the highest point of the mountain.  The “Andalucia 2009 Women’s Expedition” has gone beyond the current rancid mountain climbing and proved that an 8,000 can be climbed with work, will and trust in the possibilities of a group, having in consideration and respect the activities of other groups on the mountain.  The Andalucians came as “favorites” to BC and finished with the most successful attempt of the season on Manaslu.

On the 15^th the Andalucians left again from BC, to reach C3 on the 16^th, waiting for the announced window of good weather.  The panorama they found in the high altitude camps was disappointing.  Just like in C1, all the camps were buried and destroyed by the snowfalls.  And as in previous attempts, the strong wind of the high altitude forced them to decide to stay one more day at C3, to continue climbing on the 17^th, a day in which the conditions were adequate to attempt the most vertical part of the route and reach C4.

At the location of C4, the Sherpas from the Andalucian team left two depots with materials, but when the climbers got there on the 18^th they could not locate one of them, which seriously complicated the situation, because one of the tents and half of the food and gas were gone and they felt obligated to resolve the situation with no room for possible errors.

Day 19, 1 hour.

Cold but without wind, the Andalucian climbers started their march, still in the dark and with the advantage of having a Sherpa with them, who knew the route, and they went ahead of the summit attempt.  They knew that they would not find fixed ropes and that until daybreak they would the climb would be complicated, a lot of snow and the risk that would carry would be the main topic of the climb.  Around 2 hours, Lina decides to quit and although their partners try to convince her and before her decision could hurt the other members of the group, the climber goes back to C4.  The Andalucians continued ahead of the ascent over the glaciers until sunrise, when the Japanese team relieved them.  One of the Sherpas suffered a fall of more than 60 meters, which luckily did not have consequences, but alerted everybody with the seriousness of the route.  200 meters away from the summit Tamara and her Sherpa Keshap took the initiative again and reached the summit of Manaslu at 9:25h in a day of radiant sun. A while later, Inma and her Sherpa Shevi, and the expedition cameraman Lolo made it there too.

ANDALUCIA 2009

WOMEN’S EXPEDITION

REGAETON

When they left Andalucia a journalist wrote a headline that said LADIES POKER for the conquest  of Manaslu: Gentlemen… let me raise the bet.  MORE THAN A LADIES POKER.  What our female climbers made on this mountain will remain, especially for them (remember that the media coverage has been ludicrous, as it has always been for women’s sports), as a proof of their effort.

What I have helped for this project and the crumbs of success of my part, I want to share with those who love me so much from years ago and who still hit me hard but help little, you know you’ll benefit from this one, but since you are few I want to dedicate the little while I was up there, with the permission of Marina, Alaba and Salvi, to my father who died, while I attempted to reach the dream of the summit of K2 and to my friend Manuel Salazar, they know we were very close a few hours ago.  

Thanks to these women for letting me live everything I lived.

LOLO

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
 

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