Manaslu Summit by the Dynamic Busan 2009 Manaslu, Annapurna
and Dhaulagiri Expedition
News received from. Hong, Bo-Seong/Mr, leader of the
Dynamic Busan 2009 Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Expedition by telephone
on 28April 2009:
Two Korean climbers, Kim, Chang-Ho/Mr. and Seo, Sung-Ho /
Mr. and Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa / Mr. of Solukhumbu Khumjung has reached the
8163m high summit of Mt. Manaslu at 8.15 am this morning ( 28 April 2009)
This ascent of Manaslu marks the 8th 8000 meter summit for.
Mr.Kim, Chang Ho. His other 8000m meter summits include Nangaparbat,
Gasherbrum I , II, K2, Broad peak, Makalu, Lhotse. All his summits are done
without aid of bottled oxygen
In addition to Manaslu, Mr. Seo, Sung Ho has climbed
Everest, Makalu, Lhotse.
This is second ascent of Manaslu for Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa
and he also has climbed Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, Annapurna I. Ang Karma
Located forty miles east of Annapurna, Manaslu (also
called Kutang), the eighth highest mountain in the
world, dominates the Gurkha massif. The name
Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa
meaning "Mountain of the Spirit".
After several failed attempts a Japanese party
finally made the first ascent of Manaslu, (26758
ft/8163 meters) in 1956; it wasn't climbed again
until 1971. In 1997 Charlie Mace made the
first American ascent and since that time only four
other Americans had stood on Manaslu's summit until
expedition. The route is of moderate technical
difficulty, but the true difficulty will be the
grueling nature of this remote peak. After an
arduous trek to base camp the climber will be faced
with a circuitous route up a mountain infamous for
heavy snow accumulation. Avalanches and sheer
exhaustion will be their major obstacles.
A brief History of climbing Manaslu
1950: H.W. Tilman, made his famous reconnaissance of
Manaslu after his unsuccessful attempt on Annapurna
4. He stated he believed there was a potential route
to the of Summit of Manaslu via the northeast.
1952: A Japanese reconnaissance party reached 5275
meter on the east side of the mountain.
1953: The first attempt to Summit Manaslu was made
by a Japanese team of 15 climbers led by Yukio Mita
via the Northeast face. K. Kato, J. Yamada and S
Ishizaka made a summit push reaching 7750 meter
before turning back.
1954: Yaichi Hotta planned to lead a 14 member
Japanese team on the Second Summit attempt of
Manaslu, again via the Northeast. But villagers in
the area refused to let them enter the area,
therefore no attempt was made.
1956: A Japanese team led by Yuko Maki made the
first ascent of Manaslu via the North. This 12
member team established camp 6 at 7800 meter and on
May 9th. Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa
aka Galalzen Norbu reached the Summit. On May 11th,
Kiichiro Kato and Minoru Higeta reached the Summit
via the same route.
1971: Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of a 11 man
team from Japan, reached the Summit on May
17th via the NW spur. The Japanese had all the
ascents of Manaslu at this point !
1971: Kim Ho-Sup led a Korean expedition to Manaslu
to attempt via the Northeast. Kim Ki-Sup died when
he fell on May 4th, 1971.
1972: The Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz
made the first ascent via the SW face. On April
25th, Reinhold Messner, reached the Summit, Franc
Jaeger and Andy Schrick disappeared on the Summit
Plateau on the same day in a horrible storm.
1972: The Koreans returned with a 12 members
expedition led by Kim Jung-Sup via the Northeast
Face route. On April 10th 1972, an avalanche killed
16 climbers including 10 Sherpas climbers, the
Korean expedition leader and Kazunari Yasuhisa from
1973: Gerhard Schmatz led a West German expedition
to Manaslu. Gerhard, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa
climber reached the summit via the Northeast Face on
April 22nd. In 1973, Jaume Garcia Orts led a Spanish
Expedition in Autumn that was not successful
reaching only 6100 meters.
1974: The Japanese were back with a women team led
by Kyoko Sato attempting via the East ridge. Unable
to summit via the East ridge, Naoko Nakaseko, Masako
Uchida Mieko Mori and Jambu Sherpa reached the
Summit on May 4th via the Northeast route. These
were the first women to Summit Manaslu. Sadly,
Sadako Suzuki fell and died on the 5th of May
between camp 4 and 5.
1975: Jaume Garcia Orts was back with his 12 memebr
Spanish Expedition and had two climbers and a Sherpa
reach the Summit via the Northeast Face route on
April 26th. Gerald Garcia, Jeronimo Lopez and Sonam