- Jon Otto (leader) - US
- Ms. Pamela Pappas - US
- Ms. Annette Meesters - Netherlands
- Thomas Lund - Norway
- Sajan Holmgren - Norway
- Heiko Hillgartner - Germany
- Tony Schuck - Australia
- Maurice Hickey - UK
- Thomas Lind - Denmark
- Andreas Carlsen - Denmark
- Jonas Andersen - Denmark
- Peter Sroka - UK
7 July, 2009
Hello SummitClimb news, this is Jon Otto, the leader of the
Mustagata 2009 expedition.
The team is doing well and weíve reached acclimatization
camp near Karakul Lake at 3600 metres/11,800 feet. Weíre going to spend
another day here before moving on to basecamp. This morning we hiked around
getting used to the altitude and now everybody is drinking tea and sitting in
their yurts. The team is getting on great.
So everyone is doing fine and getting excited to reach the
mountain soon. Weíll send more news in once weíve reached basecamp. Thanks for
following along our expedition. Bye.
8 July, 2009
Hi, this is Jon Otto reporting in for the SummitClimb
Mustagata Expedition 2009 for 8 July.
Weíre in basecamp. Everyone is doing well. Weíre just
getting everything set up here in basecamp and putting up all of our tents.
The weather isnít so good, so weíre hoping it will improve so we can start
climbing soon. Tomorrow, we will be doing a bit of training on ropes and such
to make sure everyone is ready to for going up the mountain. Thanks for
following along our expedition. Talk to you soon.
10 July, 2009: Hi, this is Jon the leader of the SummitClimb
Mustagata expedition. Itís Friday July 10th.
Yesterday everyone was at basecamp doing well. We did some
skills training and ate some really delicious food.
Today the weather finally cleared up. The weather gods were
pretty nice and now everyone is going up towards camp 1 for an acclimatization
hike. Iím surrounded by about 30 local Kirghiz who are all hanging around our
camp with their mules and donkeys. Theyíre going to be carrying a bunch of our
equipment up to camp 1 today.
Thereís a lot of snow on the mountain. I probably havenít
seen this much snow ever on Mustagata. I think thatís a good thing, especially
for the skiers. Weíll see what the conditions are on the mountain when we go
up today. Weíre really excited about it.
Weíll come back down tonight and Iíll call in again soon.
12 July, 2009
Hi, this is Jon Otto calling in again for the SummitClimb
We are finally on the mountain, which feels great. Itís
still windy out right now. Weíre on our way to camp 2. Last night most of the
members spent the night in camp 1 and those who didnít are going to try to
come up and spend the night there tonight. Weíre doing a carry and
acclimatization hike towards camp 2 and are about halfway there right now.
The snow isnít as much or as good as I thought it was, but
hey, thatís life and itís not bad. The weather has been fairly good and as I
call in everyone is doing well. The basecamp food has been wonderful. Iíll
call in again in another day or so. Okay, Iíve got to keep going up. Talk to
you soon. Bye.
15 July, 2009
Hi, this is Jon calling in for the SummitClimb Mustagata
expedition from basecamp.
All of the members are safely down in basecamp now. Weíve
had a great dinner of chili and rice, followed by some apple pie. Basecamp
food is wonderful.
Everyone spent one night at camp 1 acclimatizing and they
all seem like theyíre doing really well. Although there is a fair amount of
snow on the mountain, the quality hasnít been very good. Weíve been hoping for
good snowfall and it seems like we got our wish. Right now Iím sitting in my
tent and thereís been lighting and thunder and a bunch of white falling from
above. Weíll see how much is on the ground when we wake up in the morning.
Tomorrow morning about half of the team members are going
back up to camp 1 for the second acclimatization run. Thatís about it for now.
Iíll call in again soon.
Everyone is doing great. I canít send any photos because the
internet will be off until the 20th of July. Thatís what they are saying now.
So Iíll hopefully send a lot of photos very near the end of the expedition.
Okay. Good night now. Bye, bye
17 July, 2009
This is Jon reporting in for the SummitClimb Mustagata
Right now everybody is on the mountain. It was a beautiful
day today with high winds. Iím in camp 1 with Pamela, Annette, Heiko, and
Maurice. The rest of the team is up at camp 2. Weíre going for our final
acclimatization run before we spend a day or two resting in basecamp and then
going for the summit. Weíll be on the mountain for a couple more days and then
back down at basecamp.
The skiing is getting a little better. Weíre having some
good freeze-dried food. I hope that we get another 10 days of wonderful
weather, but given that weíre in the mountains, Iím not sure if that will
happen. Iíll call you tomorrow from camp 2. Good night now.
18 July, 2009:
Hello, this is Jon Otto calling in from Mustagata basecamp
for the 2009 SummitClimb expedition. It is Saturday morning 18 July.
Itís a beautiful day. It wasnít like this a few days ago.
The wind gods were doing their thing. Nothing can ruin a really nice sunny day
than a wind storm. It started Wednesday afternoon and blew all Wednesday night
into Thursday. Constant gales coming out of the southwest took a lot out of
our team. All Thursday night at camp 2 it felt like we were going to be blown
off the mountain, but everything held tight. Everybody made it up to camp 2
and had a night there and actually felt pretty good.
We are now down at basecamp resting and eating great food.
The first summit team is leaving basecamp tomorrow and hopefully weíre going
to try to summit around the 22nd or 23rd, but we have to see what the weather
is going to be like. Other than that itís just normal basecamp life here with
team members playing cards, taking showers and reading books.
Thatís about it. Iíll call in again soon. Bye now
20 July, 2009:
Hi, this is Jon Otto calling in from Mustagata basecamp for
the SummitClimb expedition.
Last night we ate lasagna, which was delicious. Our cook
Sangjien made a great lasagna and salad for us and everyone enjoyed it.
Weíre starting our summit push. Yesterday about half the
team went up to camp 1. Today the other half of the team is going up. Thatís
me, Pamela, Annette, Maurice and Heiko. The rest of the team is already in
camp 1 and today they are going to camp 2.
We had a slight storm last night and some really strange
weather today. It looks like weíre going to be hit by some more stormy
weather, but thatís fine for now as long as itís bad for the next couple days
and not on summit day. So weíre all waiting with anticipation and checking the
weather every day and hoping for the best.
Everybody is in good spirits and in good health. Itís a
strong team and itís pretty much up to the weather gods at this point. Iíll
call in tomorrow with another report and let you know how weíre all doing.
Okay, I have to head up the hill now. Bye, bye.
Hi, this is Jon calling in from camp 1 on Mount Mustagata
for the 2009 SummitClimb expedition.
We are now on our summit push, so hopefully this will be the
last time we have to spend in camp 1. With me here is Annette and Pamela in
one tent, then Maurice and Heiko in another tent. We also have two of our
staff, Chen and Lincoln with us.
Overall, everybody is feeling great. The rest of the team is
up in camp 2. They are going to try to summit on the 22nd of July and we are
going to try to summit on the 23rd of July.
Earlier today the zippers on both of Mauriceís 8000 metre
Scarpa boots broke. We had to punch holes all of the way up the front of the
boots on both sides and use shoe laces to tie them together. That was the
innovation of our cook, which was great.
We just had some minor snow storms that lasted for about 20
minutes. Weíre looking forward to going to camp 2 today and the other folks,
who are also doing great, will be going to camp 3. The whole team is on the
mountain at this point. Okay. Talk to you tomorrow. Bye now.
Hi, this is Jon calling in again from camp 1 on Mustagata.
Itís a sunny morning with moderate winds. I forgot to
mention our Denmark team of 3, who are Thomas, Andreas, and Jonas. They were
trying to do a completely self-supported climb on the mountain. A week ago
Andreas hurt his knee skiing and he is now joining our team for the summit
bid. Thomas and Jonas are up going to camp 3 today to try to summit as well.
So those 3 are all good and safe.
The rest of the team is taking off today for camp 3 and
weíre about to take off for camp 2. The weather report is iffy, so weíre
hoping for the best. Okay, talk to you later. Bye now.
21 July, 2009
Update 2 - First team in camp 3 going for the summit!
Hi this is Jon calling in from camp 2 on Mount Mustagata.
Right now we have Maurice, Heiko, Annette, Pamela, and
Andreas, as well as the Denmark team. Weíre all here in camp 2 and doing well.
The rest of the team is in camp 3 and I believe already in bed. Theyíre going
to try to get up at 3:30 in the morning and get a 6:00 a.m. start for the
summit, which is right at sunrise. The weather is supposed to be cloudy with
light winds, so we hope it doesnít get any worse than that. Everybody is
filled with a lot of anticipation for the summit and hoping that the weather
holds out for us.
Weíll talk to you tomorrow with, hopefully, some good news
from camp 3. Now itís time to drink some mint tea and go to bed. Okay, Iíll
call in again tomorrow. Bye now.
22 July, 2009: Summits
Hi, this is Jon calling in for the SummitClimb Mustagata
Today Sajan summited, as well the two Danes, Thomas and
Jonas, who were doing a self-supported climb. Tony, Peter and the other Thomas
got to about 7300 metres.
It started as a beautiful day with light winds and then
about noon we got this sudden whiteout with some hail and a lighting storm.
Most everybody felt something on their heads, shoulders and backs, so we all
got down fast on the slopes and had to lie in the snow for 30-40 minutes while
it passed. Everybody is okay and fine, but unfortunately Tony, Peter and
Thomas had to come down.
Right now in camp 3 we have Pamela, Annette, Maurice, Heiko,
Andreas and me. Weíre going to wake up early tomorrow and try to start at
first light for our summit bid. Wish us well. Iíll talk to you tomorrow with,
hopefully, some good news. The rest of the team is either down in camp 2 or
all the way down in basecamp. Okay, bye now.
23 July, 2009
Hi, this is Jon calling in for the SummitClimb Mustagata
expedition from camp 3 again.
We had a big snow dump last night, so we stayed here at camp
3 all day. Hopefully tomorrow morning we will be able to go to the summit.
Itís Heiko, Maurice, Pamela, Annette, me and a few of our high altitude staff
up here. Weíre going to try again to get a 5:00 a.m. start tomorrow morning if
the weather is good. The tents are all covered with snow, but everyone is
feeling good and healthy.
Weíll talk to you again soon. Okay, time to go to bed now.
25 July, 2009
Hi, this is Jon Otto calling from Mustagata basecamp for the
SummitClimb 2009 expedition.
Everybody is down here safe and sound. Yesterday, we got
lucky with the weather. Pamela, Maurice, Andreas, and I all summited around
1:00 p.m. Our high altitude guide, Asu, broke trail for the second time within
3 days to the summit. Pamela was super-woman. She sped up there breaking trail
We are now stripping the mountain. This is our last day
here. The local people, the Kirghiz, are all hanging around our basecamp
trying to sell their wares.
The team is packing up, relaxing, drinking beers, and doing
the regular basecamp life.
It was a great expedition! Weíll be sending in more reports
and photos in a few days once weíre off the mountain. Right now Iíve got to go
and help pack up basecamp. Have a great day. Bye.