18 September, 2010
Hi this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Cho Oyu 2010 Autumn
I'm currently typing from ABC, its -15C outside my tent, I'm almost freezing
Today I have two sad news to give you:
Mr Stephen Ranger had to leave our expedition due to a case of pulmonary
oedema. A doctor from the Amical Expedition examined him and found irregular
blood pressure and heart rhythm. We tried our best to keep him here, but it
was impossible to keep him on the expedition without proper medical attention
(reminding you that ABC is 5700m!). Steve left camp 2 days ago a crossed the
Nepali border safely and went straight to a hospital in Kathmandu. He was
diagnosed with having pulmonary oedema. The descent from the high altitude
probably saved his life. Steve is a nice guy! We will really miss Steve and
pray for a fast recovery and hopefully enjoy his company again on another
trip. Steve, please send us some news!
In another unhappy event, an avalanche at 7700m swept a lot of Tibetan sherpas
and injured 7 of them, 2 very seriously. After a very complex rescue, they are
all stabilized at ABC or BC and are now on their way to a hospital in Lhasa.
They were sent to fix the route very early in the season.
From ABC we can even see avalanches over the rockband at 7700m. We hope they
recover from the injuries and don't get any more complications.
Now the good news. Our team is doing great! We all spent a night at C1. The
sherpas, Raj and I worked hard to dig good platforms at 6450m, just above the
normal C1. The views from there are great, I wish you could see what we see
from that altitude! We even had a kitchen tent set up with our amazing kitchen
boy Chiring. The members love him! Every morning, afternoon and sunset he
brings hot beverages and hot food to our tents. This really helps with the
acclimatization. Everyone woke up in a great shape.
Today we geared up and climbed part of the route that leads to camp 2. The
weather was great (for a while). After reaching 6600m, everyone returned to
C1, left all the heavy gear and continued to ABC. Our cook waited for us with
meat stew and Swiss potato pancakes (Nathalie and Rolf were VERY pleased!)
Everyone is in great shape and fully acclimatized to 6400m.
We'll spend another 2 nights, then head to C2 to finish our acclimatization
plan, which seems to be working very well!
That is all the news so far. Steve is great guy and we will all miss him!
16 September, 2010
Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the SummitClimb Cho Oyu 2010
Autumn expedition. Today is September 16th 2010 and we are back to ABC.
Yesterday, all the members reached camp 1 (6400m). Our sherpa and porters
worked very hard yesterday and today to set our camp and take all logistics up
there so our members can go to sleep there tomorrow.
As we were coming down from camp yesterday, the weather got really bad and
hasn't improved since. Our weather forecast says that tomorrow should be a
good day. Everyone continues to adapt very well to the extreme altitudes. If
the team continues like this, we should be ready for the summit push in less
than 10 days!!
The CTMA is association with the Tibetan Climbing School became responsible
this year for fixing the route. We contributed with rope, equipment and staff.
The Tibetan team already fixed the route to the rock band at 7700m and surely
will finish the job by the time our team is acclimatizing. We are very
thankful to them for this.
Tomorrow we will have breakfast and start to move up slowly to reach camp 1
and spend 1 night there. The next day we are planning a acclimatization climb
to the ice cliff at 6700m.
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