At Hidden Peak (8,068m) base.
It is a great pleasure to send news
directly from base camp, we are already installed at 5,050m of altitude, at
the foot of the majestic group of mountains called Gasherbrum. They are 6
impressive peaks, two of them taller than 8 thousand meters, Gasherbrum I or
Hidden Peak (8,068m) and Gasherbrum II (8,035m).
There are a total of 8 expeditions here,
a relatively small number compared to the previous years, because of the
political instability and the war that hit this part of Asia.
Almost all the teams have as their main
objective to climb Gasherbrum II, which is easier; I climbed it in 1999. A
French team and an English team installed all the superior camps and are ready
to make an attempt to reach the summit.
The path to camp 1 (5,950m) is the same
for both mountains, but nobody invested any effort above that altitude on
Hidden Peak, the main objective of our team.
We are waiting for the arrival of the
rest of our equipment, which was delayed because of the excess of snow. In
total, there are twelve plastic barrels with everything we need for our climb.
They should be here tomorrow, and we will immediately start our attack on
The weather is still unstable, the sun
shines on a blue sky during the morning, but around noon the clouds come and
it snows a little at the end of the afternoon. The excess of snow of the
season worries me, but it is not stopping the development of our work.
Today, we had the visit of Donald Bowie
(Canadian) and Alexey Bolotoov (Russian), a pleasant surprise, they are well
known climbers and very strong, they will decide to join us on the attack on
Hugs, Waldemar Niclewicz
Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera
Toward base camp
We are happy in the most impressive and
majestic mountains of the Earth, Karakorum. Despite the distance we visited
the Baltoro Cathedral, the big Trango, Broad Peak and even K2.
After 40 km of trekking, in two days, we are
now resting in Paiju at 3350m of altitude, a real oasis in the middle of the
arid mountains. Our barracks protect us from the strong heat of the sun under
the shadow of the trees and we have crystal clear water, something rare here.
The stress of almost 30 hours in the plane,
the difficult trip from Islamabad to Skardu and the very dangerous trip by
jeep from Skardu to Askole (where we had an accident in 1998 with the death of
our cook and his son), gives way to an incredible feeling of satisfaction.
Being in front of K2 again, after 10 years,
gives me certainty that all the effort I did to make the so long waited dream
true is all worth. No other mountain has given me so much fascination, no
other mountain has demanded me so much in exchange.
We still have 80 km ahead that we have to
cover them in four days, and it is the most difficult part of the approach
trek, because we are going to walk over the Baltoro glacier, but the beginning
will be covered with a lot of lose pebbles and then there are hidden crevasses
because of the excess of snow this season. In compensation, each day will be
more impressive because of the grandness of the mountains.
The weather improved, we have strong sun in
the morning, but there have been some showers during the afternoon.
We are traveling with the people of Máximo
Kausch from Argentina, he lived in Brasil for nine years and he is facing
Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum 2 with an English team that is now at base camp.
I hope to send the next update directly from
base camp; Insha Alá!
Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera
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