Morning (8/6/2010) on K2, night (8/5/2010) in
America: It was clear at midnight, but by morning there was a storm. The
forecasts for a clear window with stable weather was clearly very wrong.
On the Cesan route, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Fredrik
Ericsson went for it..... At this hour it
is impossible to know how far they got before the storm hit. Climbers have
summited Everest in 100 mph winds, but they had fixed ropes. There are no
ropes here. Visibility is hard and it is snowing. Gerlinde and Fredrik are
believed to be in the area of the bottleneck... We will see what they do.
The others on the Cesan, are at Camp 4.
On the Abruzzi route, Lakpa Sherpa, who has summited
Everest more than any woman by far, headed up to camp 4 with her 2
sherpas. The others are at camp 3 and hoping she returns back down.
Visibility is very bad and fresh snow makes the route very difficult.
Stay tuned... we will update again soon.
Earlier: 3 hour whiteout on the Abruzzi !!! Weather
forecast missed it and what else ?? Clouds move in .... Climbers decide to
wait a day before moving up, More details on the Abruzzi climbers soon.
On the Cesan route, Ralf descended to BC, while Gerlinde
moved to camp 4 in clear conditions! Trey Fredrik and the others are
believed to have moved to camp 4. Details are thin.
Earlier: Today Tue. July 27 is another day in BC.
I will be short due to the lack of Thuyara minutes:
We retreated, going down with yet another lesson about K2, this time the
wind was too much for us on the Abruzzi.
Our summit attempt failed due to the bad weather.
All of us In agreement and facing the reality of it, we decide to go down,
rest and try again.
The forecast we have so far is not encouraging, but we still hope the
window will come sooner rather than later.
The large Korean team has announced they have quit this year's expedition
due to having commitments and other arrangements.
Other groups have announced their retreat as well for this year.
The weather seems fine up high today; however, the next few hours may be
On the light side, we are all determined to summit, some coughs are
present but nothing alarming.
Will post again as we have more news.
Please stay tuned at Everestnews.com the only reliable source of
mountaineering information, regardless of what the others are telling you.
George Dijmarescu reporting exclusively for Everestnews.com
Sunny USA-EU K2 Expedition
Goodwin Austen Glacier
2010: Weather changes our plans
Dear Everestnews.com readers: The new forecast announcing
strong winds up high made us change plans for the summit push. We are
set to wait the passing of the jetstream, precipitation is announced at
7500m with perhaps as much as 20 Cm of new snow, however we hope the
wind will just send it to China. Our group is in great shape and
spirits, everyone is eager to get up the mountain again and wrap this
up. On a speculation note, all members believe this year will be
another repetition of 2004 with massive summits
In the mean time, we play cards and make jokes, it is a
pleasant atmosphere here at USA-EU Sunny K2 Expedition. Please keep
reading Everestnews.com, the only source of real climbing news. no
gossip, just news as reported to this site
From the Goodwin Austen Glacier
Sunny K2 Expedition
2010: Death on K2, a Mystery
This morning I frantically tried to find someone in C2 to
check on a Bulgarian man who arrived behind me in C2. His face showed that
of a totally disoriented and physically finished man. He looked like a
I got to know this man since he followed me from ABC, We
spoke several times and he asked me repeatedly where C1 was, and where C2
was. As I pointed out to him he kept asking the same question, again and
again. He seemed unable to comprehend even though his English was not too
bad. But more about him later.
The evening of Friday July 16 we heard strange noises
coming from his small Ferino tent. Initially we saw two men, one the
Bulgarian and another, well equipped, whom I thought was another
Bulgarian. It turned out to be a high altitude f****** Pakistani, and the
reason I say "f******" is because he left the Bulgarian in C2 and went
down to BC.
This morning I begged the Korean leader to radio his men,
who incidentally had just arrived in C2 from C3. After a bloody lengthy
communication nightmare, the news came over the radio.
The Korean leader, sitting at the table, looked at me and
motioned with his forefinger 'slicing' across his neck, I
didn't understood his signal but Isak, the cook, interrupted him, saying:
FINISH, he is dead. I went outside the tent and cried. This
would give K2 is another bad wrap, but the weather was fine; K2 was not at
I got back on the radio and told Rinjing and Mingma, our
two sherpa whom I placed on stand by in C1, just in case the
Bulgarian needed help.
"Go down, Rinjing, he is confirmed dead."
Initially Rinjing radioed down that he shouted at the
Bulgarian tent this morning but didn't receive a reply. Rinjing said,
Ivo Meier, our member who came down from C2 this morning,
confirmed that the backpack as well as the crampons and ice axe were still
next to his tent where I observed it the day before, when I already had
bad feelings about this man as I looked at his face.
. Ivo and I were chopping a platform for his C2 tent just
as this man arrived. He stared at me, looking like he wanted help. He
then entered his tent, where later noises were coming from, noises like
moaning or groaning. Frankly I had no idea what it meant.
In the morning when I decided to get down from C2, I had an
urgent call of nature, so I slid down past his tent where I knew the
toilet was. I kept my ice axe close since I was not wearing the crampons
and ascended to my tent, I thought I'd gather my things and before going
down just knock at the Bulgarian man's tent. Sadly, however, after packing
my things I hung onto the ropes and continued to slide down towards the
House Chimney. I forgot about my initial intent to visit Ferino's
tent. Not stopping there is my utmost regret, as I'll never know if at
that point the Bulgarian was still alive. I was alone in C2 at that time,
and there was one Poisk oxygen bottle and one mask with regulator.
To the fallen man's family: I apologize deeply. I will
regret my action til the day I die.
This is sad news of an unnecessary death, of a guy little
known by anybody here.
It reminded me of 2004 Everest when the niece of Hristo
Prodanov went up Mt. Everest in search of her uncle who perished on the
West Ridge, she wanted to descend the West Ridge in search of a body that
had been there for more than 20 years. Sane or insane, she died looking
for his body.
Here, now present in K2 BC, there is another person who is
inclined to go on that same path, so stay tuned. K2 is not done yet.
Forecast: next Sunday is the "D" day. Our group is solid,
strong, determined and ready for a safe ascent.
I hope the sad news reaches the Bulgarian man's family
I am the first to know about this tragic death; however,
laptops are plenty here.
From the Goodwin Austen Glacier, K2 BC reporting
exclusively for Everestnews.com
Sunny K2 USA-EU Expedition