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   Shishapangma 2010 : Tunc Findik Shishapangma report


Dear friends and followers, Namaste from Nepal. This is Turkish climber Tunc Findik's Shishapangma report.

Me and my partner Dawa Sherpa tried to summit Shishapangma by the northeast ridge in 1st October 2010, but due to dangerous & insecure snow conditions, we had to abort as high as 7900 metres, ie. around 100 m short of the central summit. The weather on our summit day was very good with great views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu, with no wind almost, a 'windstopper glove' day really. Climbing was not technical, but exposed at bits, with a short section of ropes for maybe 70 metres. The rest was a snow- ridge climbing of 35-50 degrees.

Beforehand, we just spent 1 night in camp 1 (6400 m) and rested down in ABC (5600 m). On the summit attempt which luckily coincided with a period of good weather that held for a few days, we went up to camp 1 (6400 m) and then a high camp 2 (around 7150 m) which was mostly in knee deep snow cover. Then, early on 1st October, we went for the summit, starting 6 am. Before us was a French team of 3 members and 3 Sherpas which started from camp 3 , and they too had to return from 7900 m due to avalanche danger, as high as the prominent black tower on the ridge.

I am convinced we did our best, but the mountains are not always as kind as most times to people. In the extraordinary conditions that reigned the Himalaya this autumn season, Shishapangma was quite difficult to climb for small teams like us- high wind, deep snow, hidden crevasses and long distances from the ABC up. It has been a difficult expedition with difficulties and snags right from the beginning. There being very little number of people with no coordination did not help- as less as 5 expeditions total , many of them 2 or 3 man teams.

Our sympathies and condolescences for the climbers who lost their lives in Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu. We are sorry for the people whom we share the same ideal and dreams.

Great thanks to my sponsors and followers and soon to continue the quest for high peaks!
Best wishes from Katmandu.
Tunc Findik

Earlier: Tunc Called me from satellite. And latest news as below about Shishapangma expedition;

Two days ago they arrived to 7900m. but  they went back to 7200m. because of avalanche. And then today they are at  BC now. And they will be Kathmandu in one week. There are too much snow at the Shishapangma. No summit at this season

Earlier: Tunc reports in at ABC and on the move up, listen here!

Sunset on Shishapangma from Base Camp

 

Dispatch Two: Dear Everestnews readers

My best to you from Tibet, town of Nyalam, at an altitude of 3700 metres. The Shishapangma 2010 expedition is under way and going well!

As you well know, the monsoon rains keep slamming Nepalese lowlands still, causing floods and landslides. Under these conditions, reaching the Chinese border was quite an adventure, due to many landslides that destroyed the road on the way from Katmandu to Kodari border town. We had a long and very tiring journey of 12 hours, bypassing each and every landslide by walking past it and changing vehicles, on the main motorway that connects Nepal to China. It took a while for our gear to arrive Kodari, and we could only get organized to cross the border yesterday, by 8th September.

After passing over to China, things went like breeze for sure. I had not seen Tibet and the 'Friendship Highway' since my ascent of Mt. Everest in 2007 and i can say the road is excellently paved. We reached the town of Nyalam from Zhangmu in 1 hour flat! And it seems Nyalam is a much cleaner and cared for place nowadays, not being the dusty place it used to be in the past.. Well, after a good nights sleep in good old Nyalam, this morning we walked up a 4300 m peak with excellent views of Jugal Himal range with Dawa Sherpa and my two Latvian friends, Olegs and Valdis.

Tomorrow we will be reaching the Chinese Base Camp of Shishapangma (4800 m) after passing the high Lalung- La pass (5200 m) and after some more acclimatizing to altitude, will trek up the 36 km distance to Shisha's Advaced Base Camp by the Yebokangal Glacier. The climb will begin from there on. Weather that wreaked havoc on everything in Nepal seems to be completely in another fashion here in Tibet, where it is dry and sunny mostly... We do hope it keeps this way.

I will be updating the climb regularly- keep watching the news! You can also watch our team's advance on the web page of www.globalstar.com.tr by SPOT personal tracking device...

Great thanks to my sponsors CNN Turk, The North Face, Solgar, Isdestek, Suunto and Scala MICE, and my climbing club ZIRVE DAGCILIK KLUBU for their support.

Regards
Tunc Findik

Dispatch One: Dear Friends and Followers,

 
Here I am, back again at rainy Katmandu almost 3 months after the Makalu climb in spring. All seems so familiar, and monsoon seems to go on full force, drizzling along all day. Only today sun was shining on the damp streets of Katmandu. I hope all this rain and clouds don't add up as extra snow high up on Shishapangma!
 
Well I arrived in Katmandu 2nd evening, and will move to Tibet by 7th September. Time is barely enough to get the Chinese visa for Tibet and  make the necessary preparations whatsoever. It seems there are too many things to do and little time....
 
We will follow the so -called highway to Kodari (Chinese border), Zhangmu, Nyalam and passing thru the Lalung La pass (5200 metres) we should reach the Shisha BC in a week. The climb will be along the classical route line of the north side, with Advanced\ed Base Camp at an altitude of 5600 metres or so.
 
My partner in this climb will be Dawa Sherpa of Loding, an Everest traverse record holder and my good comrade, and beyond base camp we will be practically on our own.
 
Again, great thanks to all my sponsors! This climb is supported by my club 'Zirve Dagcilik Kulubu', CNN Turk, The North Face, Solgar, Globalstar Avrasya telecom, Suunto watches  and Isdestek.
 
Best Regards
Tunc Findik
 

 

 

 

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