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 7
Summits Everest Expedition: Fourth
Death on Everest Released to the Public
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John Delaney, 41, from Kilcock, Co Kildare, died
saturday on the north side of Everest. He collapsed and died
about 50meters from the Summit on the way up, we are told. He is
reportedly the first Irish man to die on Everest. He had a wife,
2 sons, and a new baby daughter. John was a member of the 7
summits Everest expedition. The 7 summits expedition released
the following news today:
All the Everest team of guides/climbers/sherpas
and 7summitsclub send there condolences and respect to Mr.
John Delaney's family in Ireland. John who was a climber on
the 7summitsclub's Everest climb ran into difficulty at 8800mts.
Guides and sherpa's assisted John but he was pronounced dead at
0430 on 21st May 2011 by guides.
Earlier:
According to Alexander Abramov, the summit of
Everest was climbed by seven members of the expedition 7 Summits
Club, guides Victor Bobok and Noel Hanna, and seven Sherpas. We
were the first in this decisive day, because we started first. Our
team reached the summit about 3:30 local time.
Climbers:
Members of the expedition 7 Summits Club:
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow
Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.
Guides:
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
And our beloved friends Sherpas ( 7 persons
Earlier:
Today, in a day, Tibetan climbers have completed the
preparation of route, now the rope fixed up along the whole route to
the summit. The way is open. Weather still gives hope for a
successful ascent. Wind is within allowable in power. On the
scheduled day, it should not worsen. The whole team (8 members, 8
Sherpas and 3 guides) are now in a camp at an altitude of 7800
meters. On May 20, in the morning, they will go to the assault camp
at 8,300 m. And the same evening, that is, tomorrow, the whole team
should go into the assault of Everest. All are doing well. A.
Abramov
17/05/2011 20:38: Plans are defined...
Expedition leader Alexander Abramov has sent information from the camp
ABC. A summit bid for the expedition 7 Summits Club is scheduled for
the night of 20 to 21 May. The Chinese have promised to finalize the
route and fix ropes up to the summit on May 20. Tomorrow, May 18, the
entire group of 19 people pulled out of ABC to the North Col camp
(7000 meters). May, 19 – to the camp at 7500 meters. May, 20 – to the
assault camp at altitude of 8300 meters. May, 21 - an attempt to climb
the summit. Now all members of the expedition is preparing for exit
Specifically, members:
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrey Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow
Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.
guides of the expedition:
Sergey Larin (51) Tver
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
and 9 Sherpas ....
Alexander Abramov, plans to stay the climb from camp
ABC.
Earlier:
The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition continues to wait
for completing preparation of route. Under contracts, it had to be done
by Tibetans, employees of the local Association of mountaineering.
However, their forces are not enough, a lot of snow, wind ... It must be
other solutions, they need help by expeditions. However, a potential for
this is not so big, every expedition leader takes care of his Sherpas to
work with clients. But there is no other exit, you need to sacrifice
something for the common cause.
Last week, in two days more than 40 climbers reached the summit of
Everest from the south. Including a large number of commercial members.
And one of the guides of Alpine Ascent Michael Horst made a significant
achievement - he climbed the summits both Everest and Lhotse in a day.
Our other expeditions. Israfil Ashurly in the team of Alexey Bolotov
attempted to climb Kanchenjunga. However, our climbers were stopped by
strong wind and now they are preparing for the second attempt. Also, the
wind did not allowed to climb Shisha Pangma for Donetsk team of climbers
led by Sergei Kovalev. They will also prepare for a new assault.
Earlier:
The expedition of 7 Summits Club went out from the base
camp for climbing to the summit of Everest. All members and guides of
the team underwent acclimatization, during which climbed to the top
Changtse (North Peak of Everest) or to a height of 7500 meters on the
classic route. We plan to climb by two groups. The first group is
scheduled to leave for summit bid on May 16, the second - on May 17.
Expedition:
The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloyvan (44) Moscow
Roman Grezky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.
Creenagh Popescu (16) Romania – cancelled due to illness
Group with special permits (without climbing Everest) -
their mission is completed:
Valery Rozov (46) Moscow
Denis dips (42) Moscow
Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow
Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangel
Guides of the expedition:
Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow – leader of the expedition
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
Sergey Larin (51) Tver
Nicolay Cherny (72) Moscow
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
Earlier:
Today, Nikolay Cherny, Sergei Larin, and Noel Hanna, along
with a team of Sherpas went to the base camp at North side of Everest. A
day before, there was a meeting with the legendary Miss Elizabeth Hawley.
A journalist, in the past, this 87 years old lady, is the main authority
in the Himalayan mountaineering. Even she has not made any ascent itself.
Hawley in her place, is both a chronicler number 1, directly receiving an
information about Himalayan expeditions, and a referee deals in
complicated situations. Unexpectedly for us, this remarkable woman
personally paid a visit to the hotel where located Alexander Abramov and
his team.
Meanwhile, a small ceremony held in the office of the 7
Summits Club. We farewelled our beloved comrades in Nepal. Victor Bobok
and Dmitry Ermakov go to the Himalayas. Dmitry will lead an expedition to
the foot of Mount Everest from the south, the main aim of a large group
will be climbing Island Peak. Victor will join the team of Alexander
Abramov, as a guide of Mount Everest. He wants to climb the summit already
by his third route (2004 - North Face direct, 2009 - a classic from the
south). We know that Eugene Vinogradsky reached the summit of Everest by
three different routes. Or anyone else?
The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow
Roman Grezky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.A.
Crina Popescu (16) Romania
Group with special permits (without climbing Everest):
Valery Rozov (46) Moscow
Denis Provalov (42) Moscow
Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow
Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangelsk
Ovidiu Popescu (47) Romania
Gennady Naykov (44) Moscow
Guides of the expedition:
Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow
Sergey Larin (51) Tver
Nikolay Cherny (72) Moscow
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
Earlier:
Today we returned in Kathmandu, after an early flight from
Lukla. All of the team enjoyed the acclimatisation trek in the Khumbu a lot.
It was very nice to get out of town. Our permits for Tibet are finalized and
we will leave Kathmandu early tomorrow morning. We will drive to Kodari and
the cross the "friendship bridge" into China to the Border town of Zhangmu.
If everything goes smoothly we will continue to Tingri at around 4200m. Here
we will spend two more night to finish our acclimatisation before going for
base camp.
Earlier:
Our Tibet visa are a little bit delayed, so we decided to go up
in the
Khumbu and start our acclimatization. This way we can make some time up during
the approach in Tibet. Yesterday we reached Namche Bazar at 3600 metres/11,800
feet. Today we are just hanging out here and enjoying the nice coffee and
apple pie..........hard work expedition climbing!
Tomorrow we will head up to Tengboche at around 4000 metres/13,100 feet. After
this we will go down and back to Kathmandu. Today I got the good news that all
our permits are ready, we only have to get the Tibet entry visa in Kathmandu.
We expect to be back in Kathmandu on Wednesday and we will probably cross the
Tibetan Border on Thursday!
All the members are doing well and are enjoying the fresh mountain air and
great views here! I think we have a very strong group with a lot of experience
this expedition, but let's see what the mountain does this year.......stay
tuned for more news......
Arnold Coster - expedition leader

We look at the Himalayas from south to north. Kanchenjunga. The
team collected by Alexey Bolotov will try to climb this giant mountain. It
consists of two top Russian high altitude climbers - Nikolay Totmyanin and
Gleb Sokolov. As well as our close friend, president of Mountaineering
Federation of Azerbaijan, the snow leopard and the climber at the Seven
Peaks Israfil Ashurly. Together with them - Pole Paul Michalski, Romanian
Alex Gavan and Italian Mario Panzer and Spaniard Antonello
Martinez. And also a group of Nepalese climbers. If successful Sherpa Mingma will
be the first in the country climbed 14 eight-thousanders
...
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
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-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
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Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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