Hello everyone from Mendoza, Argentina.
Just checking in to let all know that Brianna and I summited
on the 11th of Jan, 2011 on Aconcagua after reaching the summit of the middle
Peak, between the North and South summits. Bri did so well at altitude, she is
on her way now to bigger things. Rob, her father, also did really well, making
it to 6,300 meters but needed to turn back because his feet would not warm up.
He is safe and sound in Mendoza with all his feet and ready to head home to
Utah. He is already preparing more for his next climb...
I am off again for the second summit this season making it
the 33rd time up there. Every time is very special, new people, new weather,
always working hard to balance all of life anywhere on this earth. Keep in
touch, I'll send more dispatches from the hills.
Thanks for following us on this expedition... next one kicks
off in a few days time. Cheers, Marty.
Another summary of Marty's last call to me:
All is going well. Rob, Brianna and Marty have brought their
last pieces of gear down to Base Camp and will take a few days to walk out and
get back to Mendoza.
They all came down the mountain safely after the successful
summit bid of Bri and Marty. Rob was in good spirits when they joined up again
and had a good night's sleep. They packed up and headed down.
The team clearly had a great adventure together and is
looking forward to seeing each other again in the future.
Bye bye from Aconcagua
Today's dispatch was quite hard to
understand due to static on the line, but here's a summary of Marty's words:
Marty and Bri calling from just under the summit.
They started early this morning together with Rob. At 6,300
m (21,000 ft) Rob's feet were really cold. It was -20ºC (-4ºF) and with the
wind the windchill was even worse! He couldn't keep his feet dry (?) and Marty
tried to warm them on his chest for a while but to no avail. So they turned
around and went back to camp to leave Rob there and save his feet from frost
Marty and Bri then went up again for their summit push. They
first took a detour to a 'sub-peak' which went well and took them about 2
hours. They then continued and reached the 'normal' peak of Aconcagua at 6,962
m (22,841 ft). What an awesome effort by 22 year old Brianna.
Now on their way down back to camp. Playing it safe and
They'll make a plan what to do next when they get to camp.
Marty is keen to give Rob another go at the summit.
Hello everybody, This is Bri and Rob and Marty,
It's 1.30 and brewed up... I believe it's the 11th of
January... 11.1.11 that's what Rob says in my other ear... and it's take-off
time for the summit! There's no wind, temperatures are ok and all systems are
go. So it's feeling really good, everyone is fine and happy. We had a little
bit of sleep last night and it feels good to be preparing for hopefully a 10
hour ascent and with a 5 hour descent... 15 hours round trip. So that's in our
minds and that makes us motivated to just put one foot in front of the other
and going to the summit.
So this is their objective for this trip and hopefully we
attack the summit today and we'll call from the top.
Ok, letting everyone know that we're doing well and off to
the summit today.
Bye bye from Aconcagua
Fourth dispatch from Aconcagua:
Just letting you know everything is good. Rob and Brianna are doing great,
the father-daughter team. They're experiencing every day, setting a new height
record for themselves - they've never been above 14,000 ft and we're sleeping
right now at 16,600 ft which is roughly around 5,100 meters and we're getting
We're at Camp I... did really well up here. Yesterday we pushed a great
carry up to Camp II, which is 5,800 meters, so a big jump and everybody did
really well. Rob's knee is coming around* and a little bit of sinus drip in
the back of his throat and persistent coughing (...) sleeping with a scarf on
his face as well as climbing with a scarf around his face to get a bit of
warmth going into him instead of the cold air. And Brianna is just cruising
along at altitude, what more can I say... she's doing great and her attitude
is positive and she's enjoying the adventure and just the excitement of being
on a big mountain. And it's great to see a father-daughter team working
together, great lively conversations in the tent. We're all sleeping in the
Macpac Hemisphere tent and loving it... a lot of room since Rob is 6'6"...
he's a big tall basketball player and he's fitting nicely in the tent.
So today was a good rest day, it makes us stronger and prepared...
* Daan says: I now realize that I made a mistake in the last dispatch. Some
parts were very hard to understand because of a dodgy connection and I wrote
'... Rob and me were a little bit hurting...' At the time I was surprised
because, as you know, Marty is a machine. After hearing this message I realize
he said '...Rob's knee was a little bit hurting...' Apologies!
Fifth dispatch from Aconcagua:
Hello everyone following us,
This is a dispatch from our high camp at 5,900 meters, roughly 19,300 ft
... about 300 ft below Kilimanjaro and about 700 ft above Mount Elbrus in
Russia, so just to give you an idea. So Rob and Bri are doing fantastic,
they're weathering it out at this altitude... never been up here before, so
it's a record for them. They're doing great, no headaches and (...) having
We went out today, out into a storm and tried to get up as high as we could
just to acclimate and the storm knocked us back. We're in the tent right now
and it's storming away and I guess it's like pulling the top away from your
dining table and putting a sheet over the top and sitting underneath it for 48
hours, 50 hours and preparing to then go for a 7,000 meter mountain. It gives
you an idea and that's what we're doing right now and everyone is coping well.
We're just waiting for the weather to break and hopefully try summit day
tomorrow, which would be the 10th and if the 10th doesn't work, we'll try the
11th and if the 11th doesn't work we'll try the 12th. So that's our game plan.
So if you don't hear from us for a couple of days, it's because we're sitting
still waiting for the summit and when you do hear from us hopefully we're on
the summit giving everyone a big hello from the top of Aconcagua.
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