Gerfried Goschl Winter G1: Aborted Attempt!

Just (22.30 clock time) was the redeeming call from Gerfried:

"I'm back at base camp," was the message. Audibly disappointed by the failed attempt, the team wants to relax now for the first time from the rigors of the day. "We have, through the fresh snow used for a long time to 6700m. The Verfixen the last 100 meters in pimples hard ice lasted hours, we would have to rise in the darkness of a further 200 meters to tomorrow a realistic chance at the Summit. We do not want to take that risk, "said Gerfried further. Therefore, the team has decided to abort.
In the meantime, all climbers are at base camp. What happens next remains to be seen in the next few days.
Thank God nothing happened!

Earlier:

After countless failed attempts at conversation via satellite phone, Ali Muhammad from Adventure Pakistan could tell us that now all seven climbers have reached bearing 1 on schedule. They want to stick to their plan and tomorrow climb to 6800m and set up camp 2, where the last 100 meters are still. We hope phone connection can be made again tomorrow.

Earlier:

There is still no good news from the Hidden Peak base camp. Gerfried writes today clearly thoughtful about the meaning of his actions. The situation is not easy for us all. This "Wait" has something very unnerving, it is difficult for me to stay positive. However, my feeling tells me that they will manage it this time! We'll see ..

A beautiful Carnival weekend greetings

Heike

Preparations for the promised storm

For days we had to wait because of the strong winds at the base camp. From next Monday, but it will get significantly worse. Charly Gabl tells us ahead in 7000 to 140 meters Maximum Gust km / h. So we must expect even here at base camp with up to 100km / h.

Therefore, we used yesterday, Friday, a chance for our mini camp 1 (6200m) in time break down and fix. Tamara and Darek scrambled on Thursday to sleep at camp 1 streaky weather to get there. Cedric and I wanted to test our Akklimatisationsstand and had planned to ascend as quickly as possible. Shortly after six clock we started yesterday morning followed by Nisar and Alex. Despite the extreme cold of -30 ° Cedric and I were very fast pace of our journey. Equally, we went on. Dot clock 11:00, after less than five hours climbing time, greeted us in camp 1 Darek and Tamara visibly surprised with hot tea. Secretly I had hoped, and Cedric, the last 100 meters to the ridge to insure at 6800m with ropes. Despite good shape, unfortunately, another climb because of the strong wind had no meaning. So we passed the time by Nisar and Alex reached the camp with a few shots and tests with the GoPro camera.

Then we took down the tent and fixed all the materials so that we can because of the rising storm, do not suffer losses. Satisfied with the result the whole team rose to the base camp. Today and tomorrow we will be here together with the Polish group led by Artur Hajzer with which we see ourselves and our excellent base camp to share, set up on the storm, ie additionally secure the tents.

How are you otherwise?
 

Physically, I feel strong and ready for our big goal for many years for my project. Our kitchen team will spoil us almost Pakistan, and this effort is unlikely, despite the wintry conditions.

On the other hand: the last time I was on 12 January showered, it is constantly cold, my toes feel numb at times like a foreign body, in February we have seen almost no sun.
Everyone can probably empathize with how it goes in as one of a situation!

Basically, we are ready for a summit climb, the steepest parts of the route are almost all covered with ropes, enough material is on the mountain, the team is working very well work. The height of the storms that we hear constantly gurgle over our heads, oppress, but the mood and motivation. Now the tedious and frustrating game of winter begins in the Karakorum, we must wait and hope for a chance at all. We still have more than one month, but already here who want to "cook" in the cold and give up their loved ones at home? And I must confess, I sometimes curse myself that I will do that of my family. I miss my two little, adorable daughters and my patient, but now also been very stressed woman. Each phone conversation with my older daughter Hannah, who keeps asking when I'm FINALLY back home is like a punch in the stomach. It's beautiful her voice heard, but depressing to fulfill their wishes can not do. These are inevitably the dark side of my life. Is it possible to adventure and the desire for a "normal" family life ever be reconciled?

The bad news for last: As it stands now is not a potential climb to the summit can take place before the beginning of March!

With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak

Gerfried Göschl

Earlier:

On Wednesday, the 8th February, we left early in the morning towards the mountain. After the recent snowfall and strong Wind, Nisar and I very seriously, we had some traces of knee-deep snow in Camp 1 (6200m) . Of course, the we had heavy backpacks on our shoulders because we now had to also carry all the equipment and food for a night at Camp 1 (6200m). Nevertheless, we achieved very quickly in the early afternoon after only seven hours to the place of the camp. The first tent was set up relatively quickly and fixed in ice, but we also had Tamara and Darek that would later come to us. Therefore, we started with the unhooking of a second bivouac place. Soon we had to change our original plans. We would make it impossible, despite intensive work on the same day a flat surface for Darek, Tamara and Nisar to hook out of the ice. Nisar for the night so had to pull me in close and Cedric tent. Even then, the sleeping space for our Polish friends is an abomination. A In a few centimeters, they lay together in a sleeping bag, secured even at night with a harness to a rope. . But Cedric, Nisar and I spent a rough night at approximately -35 °, due to the acute shortage of space had to sleep or to a regulated food intake of the question. Cedric and I have in these two days virtually had not eaten or drunk.

As predicted by Charly Gabl the next day we had a wonderful sunrise and a cold, but sunny and windless day ahead of us. It was not until we were finally able to peel out the sleeping bags packed and we ascended with fixed ropes on. Cedric rose again skillfully over steep cliffs and Eisflanken, Nisar and I provide him with ropes and filmed as best I could. Tamara now built their tent again and enlarged the platform , they dried in the sun as agreed our sleeping bags and iced tea delicious ice . After strenuous work in the late afternoon we reached a height of 6650 meters. But it was too late to reach the end of the wall, we finally had that very day descend to base camp as Alex and Carlos planned, taking our place in the tent. , after sufficient fixing material and 400 feet of rope landfill, we started our rappel on the wall. Shortly after sunset we reached camp 1, at the same time increased the Spaniard, coming from the base camp, from the ridge. After rapid packing our stuff and congratulations to Alex and Carlos went on down to the base of the wall. Exhausted, but satisfied with our achievements, we stumbled shortly before 20:00 clock to base camp. For hours we filled our store and talked about their experiences. Despite the hardships, we feel it will be traveling as a special privilege, on this mountain, and under these circumstances on a new route may be.

Today Alex and Carlos to get on and try to promote the route. Whether they can succeed in getting out of the wall at 6800 meters?

Hidden Peak With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Gerfried Göschl

Earlier:

Set up base camp and route to 5650m already

Two days earlier than planned, we reached with the help of the strong Pakistani support and a perfect organization of our agency's Pakistan Adventure been the base camp of Hidden Peak at 5,000 meters. also by fair means . I am happy that we have the base camp without assistance of a helicopter, thus attained by fair means.

As the weather looked pretty good for winter conditions and we also felt we were preparing ourselves fit even on the Sunday prior to the march. Hussain and I yesterday before the base camp was set up correctly the direction of our new route for a first reconnaissance trip on. Despite lower trace Cedric and I were able to work their way through the glacier to the foot of the wall and find more. After six hours of hard, but perfect collaboration we had moved 500 meters fixed rope and already reached a height of 5650 meters. We deposited an additional 500 feet of rope and fixing as ice screws, pitons, ice axes and slings. Tired, but happy we arrived at nightfall our base camp.
Darek and I were filming where she could, so we will soon be able to send videos first.
Today Alex and Carlos get on the route to pursue. . Tomorrow is back to work my team on the mountain. I am very confident that we can already exceed a height of 6000 meters.
As quickly as it currently precedes I would have imagined in my wildest dreams, can not, but I know that God will bring the winter and the Hidden Peak was a completely different face!
With warm greetings from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Gerfried Göschl
 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here