Alpine Club of Pakistan
First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum I by Polish Mountaineers and
Missing of Second Summit Team led by Austrian Climber Gerfried Goschl
Summit team comprising famous Austrian climber Gerfried Goschl, Swiss Cedric
Larcher and famous Pakistani mountaineer Nisar Hussain Sadpara is missing near
the summit of 8,068 metre high Mt Gasherbrum I since noon Friday 8th March
2012. The trio were part of the Austrian Expedition led by Mr Gerfried Goschl
attempting the First Winter Ascent of the mountain, also known as Hidden Peak,
situated in the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier in District Skardu of
Gilgit Batistan. Earlier the summit team had left Camp I on 6 March on the new
route from South side which was established by the Expedition during last one
month and was also attempted by Gerfried Goschl during his last winter attempt
on the peak in January 2011. They started for Gasherbrum I summit from its
South side carrying all its gear and climbed throughout Thursday night, but
had to bivouc enroute above 7000 metres.
On Friday 8th March at 10:30 am Mr Gerfried informed back home in Austria that
he was 450 metres below the summit. Another expedition member Alex Txikon from
Camp 2 saw them heading towards the summit around 2:00 pm. The team used
Thuraya telephone set.
Meanwhile Polish climbers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb, part of another
summit team climbing Gasherbrum I through the normal route from North West
side made history on 9th March 2012 when they, climbing throughout Thursday
night, reached the Gasherbrum I Summit on Friday, at 8:30 am, for the very
first time ever during winter. The climbers made this history without use of
oxygen. The climbers, who during their descent also saw Gerfried trio heading
towards the summit from the other side, reached back Base Camp on Saturday at
4:00 pm in the company of another prominent Pakistani climber Shaheen Baig.
Due to bad weather in the area rescue helicopter sortie could not be flown on
Saturday 9th March. Lt Col Manzoor Hussain (Retd), President Alpine Club of
Pakistan and Col Sher Khan, eminent Pakistani mountaineer, who are in contact
with the Expedition at the Gasherbrum Base Camp, are coordinating the
helicopter rescue arrangement through Army Aviation. It may be mentioned that
three of the climbers at the Base Camp including the summiteers are frost
bitten while remaining are not fit to climb back to search the climbers. On
Sunday 10th March as the weather cleared, a rescue team comprising three
famous Pakistani mountaineers Hassan Sadpara, (Everest climber), Ali Reza and
Nazir Sadpara was readied for flying to Gasherbrum Base Camp to reinforce the
search operation. However, due to weather turning bad by noon and late
availability of the helicopters, the sortie could not be undertaken.
On Monday another attempt will be made to launch the search and rescue
operation utilizing Army helicopters, subject to clearing of the weather in
Alpine Club of Pakistan
What is known from Gerfried's wife on Saturday:
No news, the last time Alex Txikon saw them was
yesterday at around 12.a.m. pakistani time..
Arthur Hajzer called me from Basecamp, he told me that the weather is cloudy,
nearly no sight and windy.
Ali Muhammad from adventure pakistan is organizing a rescue with a helicopter
for tomorrow. But if the weather is that bad, i think they don't have a chance
Send your positive thoughts and prayers .....
For a little more than 13 hours there is no new
information on Hidden Peak. It could not connect to the mountain, nor be made
to the base camp!
We have no choice but to wait ......
Still on the way to the summit?
Friday, 03.09, 09.00 CET clock.:
According to the Polish team around Arthur Hajzer, which could now achieve
through the normal route (north of) the summit, there are Nisar, Cedric and
Gerfried still on the path towards the summit!
The Polish team was able to see from the top of the tent of the trio, trying
to climb over the new route from the south.
This is an unconfirmed report! Furthermore, no contact will be made!
We hope that this situation is changing rapidly.
Thursday, 08.03, 10.30 local time clock.:
Just now, in our time in Austria for breakfast, I received a call from
Gerfried. "We are 450 meters below the summit of Hidden Peak, I think we do
it, I will be back later!"
Only lasted about two minutes for us who stay at home Sun redemptive
conversation. Gerfried: "We are proceeding very slowly, because we take all
the material with us. We want to cross the mountain and descend to the north!
Has an excess of an eight-thousand in the winter, it never happened. This
would probably psychologically toughest part of the expedition!
We tremble more ...
Keep fingers crossed, tomorrow it could create
the trio to the top!
Nisar, Cedric and Gerfried are at 7000m altitude. Here they have already set
up their mini tent and begin to melt snow to their liquid storage again to
"It's freezing cold, we have poor vision, but fortunately little wind,"
Gerfried gasped into the satellite phone that works again.
"We will start early at about 3.00 clock, we hope to have reached the summit
in the afternoon," said Gerfried further.
If the climbers tomorrow actually her main goal, the summit of the 8080m high
peak Hidden achieve a double blow would have succeeded!
On the one hand, the ascent of a new, never before committed route, on the
other hand, the first winter ascent of Karakorumriesen!
Since there are 14.00 clock time Nisar Hussain
(Pakistan), Cedric Hählen (Switzerland), Tamara Stys, Darek Zaluski (both
Poland) and Gerfried safely in camp 1 at 6200m. There is also this time,
unfortunately, unable to connect from the mountain toward home, the news these
days come from the base camp of Hidden Peak. Agna, a member of the Polish
team, has received the message via radio and I then informed by satellite
phone. I'm very happy!
Morning to Cedric, Nisar and Gerfried ascend to 7000m, where she set up mini
tent and bivouac in just 2 sleeping bags.
The latest report from Dr. Charly Gabl says this morning extremely cold (-43
degrees), cloudy but the wind comes ahead of acceptable weather. The wind is
blowing especially on Thursday (planned summit day) with a maximum of 45 km /
We hope to be home in the first place that anyone done something! Everything
else is seen.
We keep our fingers crossed ...
Camp 1 (6200m) about a month ago
Carlos has left us because of the end of his
leave and is currently on his way home.
Yesterday and tonight is another terrible storm swept over the base camp.
Luckily we have this time lost no tents. The sleepless night but still puts us
in the limbs.
In the next few days, the wind collapse a little. Therefore, we will march in
consultation with Charly Gabl again towards the mountain. The sky will be
cloudy in the coming days on the mountain and it will be extremely cold. On
Thursday, possibly on Friday it is forecast in the summit area of "only"
with winds 50km / h. This is reason enough for us, as far as we could. We feel
it all the way to the Austrian football size Krankl: "We have no chance, so we
So we are starting to rise tomorrow and try to reach the summit on Thursday.
Maybe we're lucky and we can surprise them with a positive message summit!
Keep your fingers crossed!
With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Just (22.30 clock time) was the redeeming call
"I'm back at base camp," was the message. Audibly disappointed by the failed
attempt, the team wants to relax now for the first time from the rigors of the
day. "We have, through the fresh snow used for a long time to 6700m. The
Verfixen the last 100 meters in pimples hard ice lasted hours, we would have
to rise in the darkness of a further 200 meters to tomorrow a realistic chance
at the Summit. We do not want to take that risk, "said Gerfried further.
Therefore, the team has decided to abort.
In the meantime, all climbers are at base camp. What happens next remains to
be seen in the next few days.
Thank God nothing happened!
After countless failed attempts at conversation
via satellite phone, Ali Muhammad from Adventure Pakistan could tell us that
now all seven climbers have reached bearing 1 on schedule. They want to stick
to their plan and tomorrow climb to 6800m and set up camp 2, where the last
100 meters are still. We hope phone connection can be made again tomorrow.
There is still no good news from the Hidden Peak base camp.
Gerfried writes today clearly thoughtful about the meaning of his actions. The
situation is not easy for us all. This "Wait" has something very unnerving, it
is difficult for me to stay positive. However, my feeling tells me that they
will manage it this time! We'll see ..
A beautiful Carnival weekend greetings
Preparations for the promised storm
For days we had to wait because of the strong winds at the base camp. From
next Monday, but it will get significantly worse. Charly Gabl tells us ahead
in 7000 to 140 meters Maximum Gust km / h. So we must expect even here at base
camp with up to 100km / h.
Therefore, we used yesterday, Friday, a chance
for our mini camp 1 (6200m) in time break down and fix. Tamara and Darek
scrambled on Thursday to sleep at camp 1 streaky weather to get there. Cedric
and I wanted to test our Akklimatisationsstand and had planned to ascend as
quickly as possible. Shortly after six clock we started yesterday morning
followed by Nisar and Alex. Despite the extreme cold of -30 ° Cedric and I
were very fast pace of our journey. Equally, we went on. Dot clock 11:00,
after less than five hours climbing time, greeted us in camp 1 Darek and
Tamara visibly surprised with hot tea. Secretly I had hoped, and Cedric, the
last 100 meters to the ridge to insure at 6800m with ropes. Despite good
shape, unfortunately, another climb because of the strong wind had no meaning.
So we passed the time by Nisar and Alex reached the camp with a few shots and
tests with the GoPro camera.
Then we took down the tent and fixed all the materials so that we can because
of the rising storm, do not suffer losses. Satisfied with the result the whole
team rose to the base camp. Today and tomorrow we will be here together with
the Polish group led by Artur Hajzer with which we see ourselves and our
excellent base camp to share, set up on the storm, ie additionally secure the
How are you otherwise?
Physically, I feel strong and ready for our big
goal for many years for my project. Our kitchen team will spoil us almost
Pakistan, and this effort is unlikely, despite the wintry conditions.
On the other hand: the last time I was on 12
January showered, it is constantly cold, my toes feel numb at times like a
foreign body, in February we have seen almost no sun.
Everyone can probably empathize with how it goes in as one of a situation!
Basically, we are ready for a summit climb, the
steepest parts of the route are almost all covered with ropes, enough material
is on the mountain, the team is working very well work. The height of the
storms that we hear constantly gurgle over our heads, oppress, but the mood
and motivation. Now the tedious and frustrating game of winter begins in the
Karakorum, we must wait and hope for a chance at all. We still have more than
one month, but already here who want to "cook" in the cold and give up their
loved ones at home? And I must confess, I sometimes curse myself that I will
do that of my family. I miss my two little, adorable daughters and my patient,
but now also been very stressed woman. Each phone conversation with my older
daughter Hannah, who keeps asking when I'm FINALLY back home is like a punch
in the stomach. It's beautiful her voice heard, but depressing to fulfill
their wishes can not do. These are inevitably the dark side of my life. Is it
possible to adventure and the desire for a "normal" family life ever be
The bad news for last: As it stands now is not
a potential climb to the summit can take place before the beginning of March!
With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden
On Wednesday, the 8th February, we left early
in the morning towards the mountain. After the recent snowfall and strong
Wind, Nisar and I very seriously, we had some traces of knee-deep snow in Camp
1 (6200m) . Of course, the we had heavy backpacks on our shoulders because we
now had to also carry all the equipment and food for a night at Camp 1
(6200m). Nevertheless, we achieved very quickly in the early afternoon after
only seven hours to the place of the camp. The first tent was set up
relatively quickly and fixed in ice, but we also had Tamara and Darek that
would later come to us. Therefore, we started with the unhooking of a second
bivouac place. Soon we had to change our original plans. We would make it
impossible, despite intensive work on the same day a flat surface for Darek,
Tamara and Nisar to hook out of the ice. Nisar for the night so had to pull me
in close and Cedric tent. Even then, the sleeping space for our Polish friends
is an abomination. A In a few centimeters, they lay together in a sleeping
bag, secured even at night with a harness to a rope. . But Cedric, Nisar and I
spent a rough night at approximately -35 °, due to the acute shortage of space
had to sleep or to a regulated food intake of the question. Cedric and I have
in these two days virtually had not eaten or drunk.
As predicted by Charly Gabl the next day we had
a wonderful sunrise and a cold, but sunny and windless day ahead of us. It was
not until we were finally able to peel out the sleeping bags packed and we
ascended with fixed ropes on. Cedric rose again skillfully over steep cliffs
and Eisflanken, Nisar and I provide him with ropes and filmed as best I could.
Tamara now built their tent again and enlarged the platform , they dried in
the sun as agreed our sleeping bags and iced tea delicious ice . After
strenuous work in the late afternoon we reached a height of 6650 meters. But
it was too late to reach the end of the wall, we finally had that very day
descend to base camp as Alex and Carlos planned, taking our place in the tent.
, after sufficient fixing material and 400 feet of rope landfill, we started
our rappel on the wall. Shortly after sunset we reached camp 1, at the same
time increased the Spaniard, coming from the base camp, from the ridge. After
rapid packing our stuff and congratulations to Alex and Carlos went on down to
the base of the wall. Exhausted, but satisfied with our achievements, we
stumbled shortly before 20:00 clock to base camp. For hours we filled our
store and talked about their experiences. Despite the hardships, we feel it
will be traveling as a special privilege, on this mountain, and under these
circumstances on a new route may be.
Today Alex and Carlos to get on and try to
promote the route. Whether they can succeed in getting out of the wall at 6800
Hidden Peak With best wishes from the base camp
of Hidden Peak
Set up base camp and route to 5650m already
Two days earlier than planned, we reached with the help of the strong
Pakistani support and a perfect organization of our agency's Pakistan
Adventure been the base camp of Hidden Peak at 5,000 meters. also by fair
means . I am happy that we have the base camp without assistance of a
helicopter, thus attained by fair means.
As the weather looked pretty good for winter conditions and we also felt we
were preparing ourselves fit even on the Sunday prior to the march. Hussain
and I yesterday before the base camp was set up correctly the direction of our
new route for a first reconnaissance trip on. Despite lower trace Cedric and I
were able to work their way through the glacier to the foot of the wall and
find more. After six hours of hard, but perfect collaboration we had moved 500
meters fixed rope and already reached a height of 5650 meters. We deposited an
additional 500 feet of rope and fixing as ice screws, pitons, ice axes and
slings. Tired, but happy we arrived at nightfall our base camp.
Darek and I were filming where she could, so we will soon be able to send
Today Alex and Carlos get on the route to pursue. . Tomorrow is back to work
my team on the mountain. I am very confident that we can already exceed a
height of 6000 meters.
As quickly as it currently precedes I would have imagined in my wildest
dreams, can not, but I know that God will bring the winter and the Hidden Peak
was a completely different face!
With warm greetings from the base camp of Hidden Peak
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