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Gerfried Goschl Winter G1: Search Launched for Missing Team!

Alpine Club of Pakistan
Press Release

First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum I by Polish Mountaineers and
Missing of Second Summit Team led by Austrian Climber Gerfried Goschl

Summit team comprising famous Austrian climber Gerfried Goschl, Swiss Cedric Larcher and famous Pakistani mountaineer Nisar Hussain Sadpara is missing near the summit of 8,068 metre high Mt Gasherbrum I since noon Friday 8th March 2012. The trio were part of the Austrian Expedition led by Mr Gerfried Goschl attempting the First Winter Ascent of the mountain, also known as Hidden Peak, situated in the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier in District Skardu of Gilgit Batistan. Earlier the summit team had left Camp I on 6 March on the new route from South side which was established by the Expedition during last one month and was also attempted by Gerfried Goschl during his last winter attempt on the peak in January 2011. They started for Gasherbrum I summit from its South side carrying all its gear and climbed throughout Thursday night, but had to bivouc enroute above 7000 metres.

On Friday 8th March at 10:30 am Mr Gerfried informed back home in Austria that he was 450 metres below the summit. Another expedition member Alex Txikon from Camp 2 saw them heading towards the summit around 2:00 pm. The team used Thuraya telephone set.

Meanwhile Polish climbers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb, part of another summit team climbing Gasherbrum I through the normal route from North West side made history on 9th March 2012 when they, climbing throughout Thursday night, reached the Gasherbrum I Summit on Friday, at 8:30 am, for the very first time ever during winter. The climbers made this history without use of oxygen. The climbers, who during their descent also saw Gerfried trio heading towards the summit from the other side, reached back Base Camp on Saturday at 4:00 pm in the company of another prominent Pakistani climber Shaheen Baig.

Due to bad weather in the area rescue helicopter sortie could not be flown on Saturday 9th March. Lt Col Manzoor Hussain (Retd), President Alpine Club of Pakistan and Col Sher Khan, eminent Pakistani mountaineer, who are in contact with the Expedition at the Gasherbrum Base Camp, are coordinating the helicopter rescue arrangement through Army Aviation. It may be mentioned that three of the climbers at the Base Camp including the summiteers are frost bitten while remaining are not fit to climb back to search the climbers. On Sunday 10th March as the weather cleared, a rescue team comprising three famous Pakistani mountaineers Hassan Sadpara, (Everest climber), Ali Reza and Nazir Sadpara was readied for flying to Gasherbrum Base Camp to reinforce the search operation. However, due to weather turning bad by noon and late availability of the helicopters, the sortie could not be undertaken.

On Monday another attempt will be made to launch the search and rescue operation utilizing Army helicopters, subject to clearing of the weather in the area.

Alpine Club of Pakistan



What is known from Gerfried's wife on Saturday:

No news, the last time Alex Txikon saw them was yesterday at around 12.a.m. pakistani time..

Arthur Hajzer called me from Basecamp, he told me that the weather is cloudy, nearly no sight and windy.

Ali Muhammad from adventure pakistan is organizing a rescue with a helicopter for tomorrow. But if the weather is that bad, i think they don't have a chance to fly.
Send your positive thoughts and prayers ....


For a little more than 13 hours there is no new information on Hidden Peak. It could not connect to the mountain, nor be made to the base camp! We have no choice but to wait ......

Still on the way to the summit?

Friday, 03.09, 09.00 CET clock.:

According to the Polish team around Arthur Hajzer, which could now achieve through the normal route (north of) the summit, there are Nisar, Cedric and Gerfried still on the path towards the summit!
The Polish team was able to see from the top of the tent of the trio, trying to climb over the new route from the south.

This is an unconfirmed report! Furthermore, no contact will be made!
We hope that this situation is changing rapidly.

LG Heike



Thursday, 08.03, 10.30 local time clock.:

Just now, in our time in Austria for breakfast, I received a call from Gerfried. "We are 450 meters below the summit of Hidden Peak, I think we do it, I will be back later!"

Only lasted about two minutes for us who stay at home Sun redemptive conversation. Gerfried: "We are proceeding very slowly, because we take all the material with us. We want to cross the mountain and descend to the north! "

Has an excess of an eight-thousand in the winter, it never happened. This would probably psychologically toughest part of the expedition!
We tremble more ...


Keep fingers crossed, tomorrow it could create the trio to the top!

Nisar, Cedric and Gerfried are at 7000m altitude. Here they have already set up their mini tent and begin to melt snow to their liquid storage again to fill halfway.
"It's freezing cold, we have poor vision, but fortunately little wind," Gerfried gasped into the satellite phone that works again.
"We will start early at about 3.00 clock, we hope to have reached the summit in the afternoon," said Gerfried further.

If the climbers tomorrow actually her main goal, the summit of the 8080m high peak Hidden achieve a double blow would have succeeded!

On the one hand, the ascent of a new, never before committed route, on the other hand, the first winter ascent of Karakorumriesen!


Since there are 14.00 clock time Nisar Hussain (Pakistan), Cedric Hählen (Switzerland), Tamara Stys, Darek Zaluski (both Poland) and Gerfried safely in camp 1 at 6200m. There is also this time, unfortunately, unable to connect from the mountain toward home, the news these days come from the base camp of Hidden Peak. Agna, a member of the Polish team, has received the message via radio and I then informed by satellite phone. I'm very happy!
Morning to Cedric, Nisar and Gerfried ascend to 7000m, where she set up mini tent and bivouac in just 2 sleeping bags.

The latest report from Dr. Charly Gabl says this morning extremely cold (-43 degrees), cloudy but the wind comes ahead of acceptable weather. The wind is blowing especially on Thursday (planned summit day) with a maximum of 45 km / h.
We hope to be home in the first place that anyone done something! Everything else is seen.
We keep our fingers crossed ...
Camp 1 (6200m) about a month ago



Carlos has left us because of the end of his leave and is currently on his way home.

Yesterday and tonight is another terrible storm swept over the base camp. Luckily we have this time lost no tents. The sleepless night but still puts us in the limbs.

In the next few days, the wind collapse a little. Therefore, we will march in consultation with Charly Gabl again towards the mountain. The sky will be cloudy in the coming days on the mountain and it will be extremely cold. On Thursday, possibly on Friday it is forecast in the summit area of ​​"only" with winds 50km / h. This is reason enough for us, as far as we could. We feel it all the way to the Austrian football size Krankl: "We have no chance, so we use it!"

So we are starting to rise tomorrow and try to reach the summit on Thursday. Maybe we're lucky and we can surprise them with a positive message summit!

Keep your fingers crossed!

With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Gerfried Göschl


Just (22.30 clock time) was the redeeming call from Gerfried:

"I'm back at base camp," was the message. Audibly disappointed by the failed attempt, the team wants to relax now for the first time from the rigors of the day. "We have, through the fresh snow used for a long time to 6700m. The Verfixen the last 100 meters in pimples hard ice lasted hours, we would have to rise in the darkness of a further 200 meters to tomorrow a realistic chance at the Summit. We do not want to take that risk, "said Gerfried further. Therefore, the team has decided to abort.
In the meantime, all climbers are at base camp. What happens next remains to be seen in the next few days.
Thank God nothing happened!


After countless failed attempts at conversation via satellite phone, Ali Muhammad from Adventure Pakistan could tell us that now all seven climbers have reached bearing 1 on schedule. They want to stick to their plan and tomorrow climb to 6800m and set up camp 2, where the last 100 meters are still. We hope phone connection can be made again tomorrow.


There is still no good news from the Hidden Peak base camp. Gerfried writes today clearly thoughtful about the meaning of his actions. The situation is not easy for us all. This "Wait" has something very unnerving, it is difficult for me to stay positive. However, my feeling tells me that they will manage it this time! We'll see ..

A beautiful Carnival weekend greetings


Preparations for the promised storm

For days we had to wait because of the strong winds at the base camp. From next Monday, but it will get significantly worse. Charly Gabl tells us ahead in 7000 to 140 meters Maximum Gust km / h. So we must expect even here at base camp with up to 100km / h.

Therefore, we used yesterday, Friday, a chance for our mini camp 1 (6200m) in time break down and fix. Tamara and Darek scrambled on Thursday to sleep at camp 1 streaky weather to get there. Cedric and I wanted to test our Akklimatisationsstand and had planned to ascend as quickly as possible. Shortly after six clock we started yesterday morning followed by Nisar and Alex. Despite the extreme cold of -30 ° Cedric and I were very fast pace of our journey. Equally, we went on. Dot clock 11:00, after less than five hours climbing time, greeted us in camp 1 Darek and Tamara visibly surprised with hot tea. Secretly I had hoped, and Cedric, the last 100 meters to the ridge to insure at 6800m with ropes. Despite good shape, unfortunately, another climb because of the strong wind had no meaning. So we passed the time by Nisar and Alex reached the camp with a few shots and tests with the GoPro camera.

Then we took down the tent and fixed all the materials so that we can because of the rising storm, do not suffer losses. Satisfied with the result the whole team rose to the base camp. Today and tomorrow we will be here together with the Polish group led by Artur Hajzer with which we see ourselves and our excellent base camp to share, set up on the storm, ie additionally secure the tents.

How are you otherwise?

Physically, I feel strong and ready for our big goal for many years for my project. Our kitchen team will spoil us almost Pakistan, and this effort is unlikely, despite the wintry conditions.

On the other hand: the last time I was on 12 January showered, it is constantly cold, my toes feel numb at times like a foreign body, in February we have seen almost no sun.
Everyone can probably empathize with how it goes in as one of a situation!

Basically, we are ready for a summit climb, the steepest parts of the route are almost all covered with ropes, enough material is on the mountain, the team is working very well work. The height of the storms that we hear constantly gurgle over our heads, oppress, but the mood and motivation. Now the tedious and frustrating game of winter begins in the Karakorum, we must wait and hope for a chance at all. We still have more than one month, but already here who want to "cook" in the cold and give up their loved ones at home? And I must confess, I sometimes curse myself that I will do that of my family. I miss my two little, adorable daughters and my patient, but now also been very stressed woman. Each phone conversation with my older daughter Hannah, who keeps asking when I'm FINALLY back home is like a punch in the stomach. It's beautiful her voice heard, but depressing to fulfill their wishes can not do. These are inevitably the dark side of my life. Is it possible to adventure and the desire for a "normal" family life ever be reconciled?

The bad news for last: As it stands now is not a potential climb to the summit can take place before the beginning of March!

With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak

Gerfried Göschl


On Wednesday, the 8th February, we left early in the morning towards the mountain. After the recent snowfall and strong Wind, Nisar and I very seriously, we had some traces of knee-deep snow in Camp 1 (6200m) . Of course, the we had heavy backpacks on our shoulders because we now had to also carry all the equipment and food for a night at Camp 1 (6200m). Nevertheless, we achieved very quickly in the early afternoon after only seven hours to the place of the camp. The first tent was set up relatively quickly and fixed in ice, but we also had Tamara and Darek that would later come to us. Therefore, we started with the unhooking of a second bivouac place. Soon we had to change our original plans. We would make it impossible, despite intensive work on the same day a flat surface for Darek, Tamara and Nisar to hook out of the ice. Nisar for the night so had to pull me in close and Cedric tent. Even then, the sleeping space for our Polish friends is an abomination. A In a few centimeters, they lay together in a sleeping bag, secured even at night with a harness to a rope. . But Cedric, Nisar and I spent a rough night at approximately -35 °, due to the acute shortage of space had to sleep or to a regulated food intake of the question. Cedric and I have in these two days virtually had not eaten or drunk.

As predicted by Charly Gabl the next day we had a wonderful sunrise and a cold, but sunny and windless day ahead of us. It was not until we were finally able to peel out the sleeping bags packed and we ascended with fixed ropes on. Cedric rose again skillfully over steep cliffs and Eisflanken, Nisar and I provide him with ropes and filmed as best I could. Tamara now built their tent again and enlarged the platform , they dried in the sun as agreed our sleeping bags and iced tea delicious ice . After strenuous work in the late afternoon we reached a height of 6650 meters. But it was too late to reach the end of the wall, we finally had that very day descend to base camp as Alex and Carlos planned, taking our place in the tent. , after sufficient fixing material and 400 feet of rope landfill, we started our rappel on the wall. Shortly after sunset we reached camp 1, at the same time increased the Spaniard, coming from the base camp, from the ridge. After rapid packing our stuff and congratulations to Alex and Carlos went on down to the base of the wall. Exhausted, but satisfied with our achievements, we stumbled shortly before 20:00 clock to base camp. For hours we filled our store and talked about their experiences. Despite the hardships, we feel it will be traveling as a special privilege, on this mountain, and under these circumstances on a new route may be.

Today Alex and Carlos to get on and try to promote the route. Whether they can succeed in getting out of the wall at 6800 meters?

Hidden Peak With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Gerfried Göschl


Set up base camp and route to 5650m already

Two days earlier than planned, we reached with the help of the strong Pakistani support and a perfect organization of our agency's Pakistan Adventure been the base camp of Hidden Peak at 5,000 meters. also by fair means . I am happy that we have the base camp without assistance of a helicopter, thus attained by fair means.

As the weather looked pretty good for winter conditions and we also felt we were preparing ourselves fit even on the Sunday prior to the march. Hussain and I yesterday before the base camp was set up correctly the direction of our new route for a first reconnaissance trip on. Despite lower trace Cedric and I were able to work their way through the glacier to the foot of the wall and find more. After six hours of hard, but perfect collaboration we had moved 500 meters fixed rope and already reached a height of 5650 meters. We deposited an additional 500 feet of rope and fixing as ice screws, pitons, ice axes and slings. Tired, but happy we arrived at nightfall our base camp.
Darek and I were filming where she could, so we will soon be able to send videos first.
Today Alex and Carlos get on the route to pursue. . Tomorrow is back to work my team on the mountain. I am very confident that we can already exceed a height of 6000 meters.
As quickly as it currently precedes I would have imagined in my wildest dreams, can not, but I know that God will bring the winter and the Hidden Peak was a completely different face!
With warm greetings from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Gerfried Göschl

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