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  Summit Climb's Dhaulagiri Expedition: Grandpa at 19,000ft


23 September
TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: DHAULAGIRI TEAM REST @ C1, 5800 M / 19,000 FT. TEAM MEMBER JERRY GLADH PHONED HOME TO DISCOVER HE IS NEW GRANDPA TO 3.9 KG / 8.6 LB BABY.

 

21 September -

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: DHAULAGIRI TEAM REACHES DEPOT CAMP AT 5086 M / 16,682 FT. EVERYONE OK. RESTING NOW, WISH US LUCK TOMORROW 4 WALK 2 C1. WEATHER CLEAR IN A.M.


20 September -

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: TONIGHT. 4 AM. JOURNEY TO CAMP 1.

THANKS FOR WATCHING!


Hello, This is Matt Belman writing on a spectacular sunny morning from Base camp. The team is feeling strong and the monsoon seems to be going away. Yesterday we had fun training on the glacier getting tuned up on our rope safety skills and crampon use. A few days ago we acclimatized up at French pass with a few hikes and a lot of cloud, rain and snow, testing our route finding skills. We have been entertaining ourselves with a few games of cards, yahtzee and a guess who I am game which has brought us to hysterics. We are surrounded by spectacular peaks and ice falls and a geologists dream of rock strata. A few animals are about, rabbit, we think and pesky clever and hungry ravens. Fortunately, we are sharing the mountain with only the Spanish team. Tomorrow we plan to head up the ice fall to depot camp and the next day for camp 1 .We all send our best to family and friends. Thanks for following Summit climbs Dhaulagiri 2012 NE rib climb.
 

 

18 September -

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: AFTERNOON SUN HIT BASECAMP & SURROUNDING PEAKS. WE EXPLORED NEW SNOW ON SURROUNDING GLACIERS. TONIGHT STARS ARE OUT. TOMORROW GLACIER TRAINING.


17 September -

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: BACK IN 4650 M / 15,252 FT HIGH BASE CAMP. JUST RETURNED FROM 4 DAYS ABOVE 5O00 M / 16,500 FT. NOW SNOWING HEAVILY.


16 September -

At the moment we are living in a very small world. It's cloudy, rainy, snowy all at the same time and we are just able to see a few meters around us. It's like we are living inside a ping pong ball!

This morning we went for an acclimatization hike with the whole team to the French Pass. A few of us scouted the route out a day before, so it was not too hard to find the way this time, even in total white out conditions. We put a lot of extra cairns on the route, this way it's easy to find the way back and the next group who passes by here has no route finding problems either. On the French pass the wind was hauling and it was snowing horizontal, not very nice, so we decided to head down to our high camp again and call it a day.

In our high camp we have a small kitchen and staff who take very good care of us. This makes our stay here, even in this bad weather, very easy.

They wake us up with tea in the morning, followed by breakfast. When we came back from our hike they served us a delicious lunch and tonight we will be surprised with a tasty dinner again. This way we will stay strong, so if the weather clears we are ready to go high up the mountain.

High Altitude greetings,
Arnold Coster
 

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: TODAY WWW.DHAULAGIRINEWS.COM TEAM MADE AN ACCLIMATIZATION TREK TO FRENCH PASS @ 5380 M / 17,646 FT. HEAVY SNOW & HIGH WINDS CHALLENGE!
 

15 September -

Well the last few days have been very exciting for the SummitClimb Dhaulagiri Expedition.

After arriving in basecamp on the 11th, the members had a lovely few rest days in 4671 metre / 15,320 foot high basecamp relaxing in their warm and cozy private individual tents, meeting up in our very spacious heated and comfortable group dining tent, enjoying delicious freshly prepared meals, watching entertaining dvd's and playing several rousing rounds of cards. During the warm afternoons, we all took hot showers.

On the morning of the 13th, we had a blessing ceremony called a "puja" for all of the sherpas and members, where the most religiously knowledgeable of our staff recited prayers and lit incense while sherpas strung prayer flags around the basecamp and everyone drank special tea and ate yummy fresh doughnuts.

Our neighbors joined in the Puja as well. They are a Spanish expedition, working to place Carlos Sorias on the summit of Dhaulagiri. At age 74, he is attempting to become the oldest person to climb all 14 eight thousand metre peaks, and has an impressive support team of sponsors from a Spanish bank, a doctor, camera men, journalists, cooks, guides, and sherpas.

On the afternoon of the 13th, our SummitClimb sherpas went off up the Dhaulagiri icefall at 4900 metres to carry and install fixed lines. While the sherpas were busy fixing rope, the members prepared all of their climbing equipment, harnesses, ice axes, helmets, etcetera.

On the 14th, the members, accompanied by 4 kitchen assistants, 1 cook, and 2 climbing sherpas, climbed up to 5034 metres / 16, 511 feet, in the direction of the French Pass, and made a good camp in a sheltered, dry, flat, rocky valley with a clean flowing stream. This is where I am writing you from at this moment. The plan is to stay up here and acclimate and hike the dry moderate rocky slope up to 5800 metres / 19,024 feet, in order to further acclimate, before we climb through the rocky icefall. We are calling this our Advanced Basecamp (ABC) on the way to French Pass.

The trail between BC and ABC was very interesting, at first walking along the white and black ice of the Dhaulagiri Glacier, then the French Glacier, then gaining moraine ridges with inspiring views of the massive North East wall of the Dhaulagiri Massif. The terrain was very easy and there was even a faint trail, cairns, and prayer flags at times.

On the afternoon of the 14th, a group of us hung out near the ABC kitchen tent and drank delicious tea and ate soup, while Arnold, Fredrick, Richie, and Chris, explored the higher reaches of the French Pass and the Hidden Valley, all of the way to 5800 metres / 19,000 feet. One of their goals was to see if they could find a higher campsite, to allow for additional acclimatization, however, they said that during their tour, they never saw enough free flowing water to allow a large camp to be established. Nevertheless, they were not able to observe in very much detail the terrain all around them, due to heavy fog, which made their return to ABC, even using GPS, a bit challenging. Fortunately they did arrive before dark. It commenced raining after our very delicious dinner last night and ceased again at around 2 am.

This morning in ABC we enjoyed another big fresh cooked breakfast with lots of hot drinks and at the moment are waiting in our tents for the fog to burn off so that we can walk around these beautiful valleys and further explore this gorgeous French Pass and Hidden Valley area, while our sherpas continue to forge the route to camp 1 on Dhaulagiri. Thanks for following our expedition and please stay tuned.


TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: STEADY RAIN & MISTS MAKE GPS NAVIGATION ESSENTIAL @ 5034 M / 16,518 FT.


14 September -

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR: SUMMITCLIMB DHAULAGIRI TEAM JUST REACHED 5034 METRES / 16,511 FEET ON ROUTE TO FRENCH PASS. JUST AS WE SET UP TENTS, HARD RAIN STARTED


13 September -

TODAY’S TWEET FROM EXPEDITION LEADER DAN MAZUR : TODAY MET CARLOS SORIA, SHARING DHAULAGIRI BC, TRYING 2 BCOME WORLD'S OLDEST 2 CLIMB ALL 14 8,000 METRE - 26,000 FOOT HIGH PEAKS!

 

12 September -

The team arrived in basecamp today and everyone is feeling fine. We will have a puja ceremony in the next few days, as well as rest and acclimate to the rising altitude. All members and sherpas are doing well and getting excited for the upcoming training sessions in basecamp as well as working our way up the mountain over the following weeks. We have only seen one other expedtiion so far here in basecamp or on the mountain, a Spanish team. We'll report in again soon after we've settled down for some well deserved rest. Thanks for following our expedition!! Dan Mazur - expedition leader
 

11 September -

Yesterday our team arrived in Italian Camp at around 3660m.

Today we will have a rest day here and a chance to wash our clothing, shave and just relax. We have an awesome view of a huge waterfall and Dhaulagiri V. Tomorrow we will continue our trek to Base camp at around 4700m. Some of our staff are already up there preparing base camp for us, so if we arrive tomorrow some shelter will be there.

So far the trek has been amazing, by far one of the most beautiful treks I've ever done. After a long and bumpy drive to Beni 830m, we were able to drive all the way to Babichour 950m the next morning. A big landslide blocked the road there and we had to start trekking from there. We followed the road through small villages and beautiful rice paddies to Darapani at 1500m, where we spent our first night in tents. The next day we followed a small trail through the jungle to Khibang at 1850m. The trail goes through pretty dense forests, crossing rivers and landslides. Every now and then the forest opens up and we can see the most beautiful waterfalls. The village of Boghara at 2520m is the last real settlement here, after this it's all jungle and mountains.

The whole way up we didn't see any other tourists, so this is still the real Nepal!

The team is strong and is doing very well. We are a nice mix of nationalities and we have plenty of things to talk about at the dining and breakfast table.

Tomorrow we will head off to Base Camp and reach our destination. We are excited to go there and see what our home is going to be for the next month or so.

High Altitude Greetings,
Arnold Coster, Expedition leader


Hi this is Andrea calling with the dispatch for the SummitClimb Dhaulagiri expedition for Saturday 8th September.

We left the village of Bagar and we had a very beautiful trek across steep terrains with beautiful scenery. We arrived in the village of Doban Kartan at 2520 meters. We all enjoyed the trek, it was very beautiful. When we arrived it was very sunny and it was nice to do some laundry, get refreshed and to chill a little bit.

We also have a friendly dog that has been following us on the trip. All of the climbers are in good health and good spirits and we’re all having fun.

Tomorrow will probably be a long day as we head for the Italian camp and we’re all looking forward to another day of trekking. Bye


Hi this is Chris Bailey from Australia giving the Dhaulagiri update for Friday 7th.

We left Dobang yesterday morning for another full day of trekking. We followed a really nice trail and haven’t seen any other tourists since we left Kathmandu; it’s really remote out here. It’s very hot and humid and a lot of people look like they’ve been in the river all day; absolutely soaked in water. The trekking is really nice it’s very varied, the tracks aren’t very big and there’s a real sense of remoteness out here.

The group started to go a couple of different ways yesterday as well; one group took the scenic route which took a little bit longer but we all arrived in Boghara safely towards the end of the afternoon. A couple of people went and had a shower and a wash in the water pool in the river and everyone was very relaxed in the afternoon.

After dinner at night the local school came and gave us a bit of performance with lots of singing and dancing and we were all dragged up to dance along with the group at the end which was very nice.


Everyone is very excited at the moment and just really looking forward to getting to basecamp. It’s very enjoyable at the moment everyone is just concentrating on that so we’ll see what happens when we get there.

So that’s all for now – over and out.


6 September -
Hi this is Slavo from Slovakia and I’m a member of the Dhaulagiri expedition and I would like to provide a dispatch for yesterday (6th September).

We stayed overnight in a village called Dobang. We set up our tents in a football field by one of the schools, it was simply amazing seeing large numbers of people playing football, the local Nepalese guys are really good at football and it was nice to watch.

We had a good breakfast and then we set off for the mountains. The weather was good with some sunshine before noon then it was a cloudy afternoon and started raining at about 4pm but it wasn’t that bad. It was a little bit humid; more than most of us are used to.

We gained quite a lot of elevation but then we descended down again so overall we gained about 300m but it was a pretty tough job to get up there and downhill. Currently we are in a village called Dobang and we are ready to hit the road.

The weather looks good, slightly overcast which is good – not to hot and we are ready to set off.
 

 

5 September

Hello this is Matt Belman with SummitClimb's Dhaulagiri autumn expedition.

Yesterday we spent the night at a nice hotel in Beni and had breakfast. Then did a little provisioning and had a few hours bus drive which, was a little bumpy but pretty comfortable. We started walking at the end of the road where the landslide made a path and for a few hours.

There was a little bit of heat and after a few hours we stopped off and had lunch at a little settlement along the beautiful Marsyangdi river. The staff prepared a delicious lunch with lots of interesting food, rice and veg and good drinks.

We continued to walk along a nice road and trail for a few hours. Some were fast and others a little slower but we all kept ourselves well hydrated as the temperatures were quite warm. The sun stayed hidden behind the clouds so it was nice and cool and we didn’t have any rain.

We stopped after a few hours in a town called Darbang. The porters found us a beautiful place to set up our camp in a small yard where many many children came out to meet us, see our tents, cameras and toys/gadgets that we have here. We enjoyed a little bit of internet, another delicious dinner prepared by the SummitClimb staff and then rested. Our altitude is 3800ft / 1200m.

Today has started with blue skies and the river is moving swiftly alongside of us. In the distance we can see a 7000m peak, white against the blue sky with a few light clouds. We’ve had our breakfast; eggs and salami and plenty of tea. Now we’re all packed up and ready for another nice stroll for anywhere between 5 to 9 hours. So everything’s well here, we're all feeling good and getting very excited about the trip ahead of us. We’ll be calling in with another dispatch as soon as we can.

Thank you
 

4 September -

Hi this is Violetta Pontinen speaking, I’m from Poland. Today is the 4th September and I’m calling with the dispatch for SummitClimb for the Dhaulagiri expedition. We started in Kathmandu very early in the morning and we came to a small village called Beni, which is about 800m above sea level. Our trip was very interesting with absolutely breath-taking views, we crossed a few rivers and a few bridges and although it was a little bit difficult we got to Beni safely and are very happy. We all feel good and admired the views. The trip lasted 8 hours and tomorrow we are going to our next destination.

Now I’d like to say something in Polish and in Finnish (click the audio link above to hear)

 

3 September -

The entire team met for an informative get-to-know-you expedition orientation meeting at the excellent Shakti Hotel. Then we went out to a few of Kathamandu's more than 100 outdoor gear shops to buy the equipment we needed. Great prices! At the end of the day, we all met up for a delicious dinner on the rooftop of 3rd eye restaurant, while Deha, our loyal office staff, configured our satphones to use twitter. So please watch out for our twitter messages coming to you live from the mountain!

2 September -

Today we received the permit at the Ministry of Tourism. Then we had a delicious celebratory dinner with the team at Northfield's in Thamel

1 September -

Today expedition leader Arnold Coster and our 8 member Sherpa staff packed and prepared all day at the Kathmandu SummitClimb Headquarters. The weather was good and we got a lot done!

Team Roster:
Dan Mazur (leader) - US/UK
Arnold Coster (leader) - Netherlands
Ms. Violetta Pontinen - Poland
Fredrik Johansson - Sweden
Jerry Gladh - Sweden
Andrea Rigotti - Australia
Slavo Fila - Slovak Republic
Juerg Merz - Switzerland
Robert Mooney - Ireland
Richie Maybank - UK
Matt Belman - USA

Karel Masek - Czech Republic
Dennis Miller - USA
Chris Bailey - UK

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Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.







 

 

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