Dear Everestnews Readers, This is Jay Reilly writing to you from Kathmandu.
When you last heard from me, we had just returned to Basecamp from 6000m Camp
2. The route to Camp 3 was not yet in and we had nowhere to go but down.
The plan was to remain in BC until our climbing sherpas
could fix the route to Camp 3. Sadly, when they returned to Camp 2, they found
collapsed tents, broken under the weight of approximately 1.5 meters of new
snow. It also meant that there was no way they could safely climb the route to
Camp 3 and fix the new rope. In fact they tried, but they soon discovered
crampons don't work when there is half a metre of new snow covering blue ice,
and they were slipping dangerously. A Korean team had been on the mountain
some 2 weeks before and had fixed new line, but due to the extreme thaw/freeze
cycle, their rope was encased underneath 6-8 inches of blue ice and could not
be climbed on.
Due to the fact that the rope could not be fixed, and the
upper mountain conditions were not at all safe, we, along with a Spanish and
Italian team - each led by UIAGM Guides, decided to rest a few days in
Basecamp, then return to Kathmandu.
Summitclimb's policy is :- Safety. Fun. Summit.
We certainly achieved 2 of the 3! Everyone was safe and
certainly everyone had a lot of fun! Thanks to Harius, Simon, Magnus, Harry
and Hugh for making this expedition a great one!
Thank you very much for following our expedition.
From Jay Reilly on behalf of Summitclimb.com
Jay reports in live: calling to update the Ama Dablam Spring Expedition for
SummitClimb. We’ve actually had to descend to Base Camp from Camp 2. We were
in Camp 2 for a night. The weather here is particularly bad. We’re getting
fresh snow everyday and we’re encountering quite an unusual problem in that
every time we fix rope, 24 hours later the ropes are encased under 4-6 inches
of ice. We’re just going to hang down here in Base Camp for a couple of days
and wait and see what the weather does and we’re going to try to go back up to
Camp 2 maybe in two days’ time. So we’ll just have to see how it goes. Other
than that we’re all well, and more news shortly. Bye.
Jay reports in live:
Hi there this is Jay Reilly updating the latest news for the
SummitClimb International Ama Dablam Spring Expedition. It’s first thing
in the morning here, so forgive me if I sound a little bit croaky. We’ve
just spent our second night here at Advanced Base Camp at 5300 meters.
It’s an absolutely stunningly beautiful day today without a cloud in the
sky, no wind. We did a load carry to Camp 1 at 5800 meters yesterday and
we’re going to move ourselves to Camp 1 today and slowly start making
our way up the mountain. Everyone is feeling fine, everyone’s happy,
we’re all good and that’s about it. I will call in in a few days time
with some more news. Bye.
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