Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  SummitClimb Ama Dablam 2007: Ama Dablam Expedition Update from Jay


Dear Everestnews Readers, This is Jay Reilly writing to you from Kathmandu. When you last heard from me, we had just returned to Basecamp from 6000m Camp 2. The route to Camp 3 was not yet in and we had nowhere to go but down.

The plan was to remain in BC until our climbing sherpas could fix the route to Camp 3. Sadly, when they returned to Camp 2, they found collapsed tents, broken under the weight of approximately 1.5 meters of new snow. It also meant that there was no way they could safely climb the route to Camp 3 and fix the new rope. In fact they tried, but they soon discovered crampons don't work when there is half a metre of new snow covering blue ice, and they were slipping dangerously. A Korean team had been on the mountain some 2 weeks before and had fixed new line, but due to the extreme thaw/freeze cycle, their rope was encased underneath 6-8 inches of blue ice and could not be climbed on.

Due to the fact that the rope could not be fixed, and the upper mountain conditions were not at all safe, we, along with a Spanish and Italian team - each led by UIAGM Guides, decided to rest a few days in Basecamp, then return to Kathmandu.

Summitclimb's policy is :- Safety. Fun. Summit.

We certainly achieved 2 of the 3! Everyone was safe and certainly everyone had a lot of fun! Thanks to Harius, Simon, Magnus, Harry and Hugh for making this expedition a great one!

Thank you very much for following our expedition.

From Jay Reilly on behalf of Summitclimb.com

Earlier: Jay reports in live: calling to update the Ama Dablam Spring Expedition for SummitClimb. We’ve actually had to descend to Base Camp from Camp 2. We were in Camp 2 for a night. The weather here is particularly bad. We’re getting fresh snow everyday and we’re encountering quite an unusual problem in that every time we fix rope, 24 hours later the ropes are encased under 4-6 inches of ice. We’re just going to hang down here in Base Camp for a couple of days and wait and see what the weather does and we’re going to try to go back up to Camp 2 maybe in two days’ time. So we’ll just have to see how it goes. Other than that we’re all well, and more news shortly. Bye.

Ama Dablam

 Jay reports in live:

Hi there this is Jay Reilly updating the latest news for the SummitClimb International Ama Dablam Spring Expedition. It’s first thing in the morning here, so forgive me if I sound a little bit croaky. We’ve just spent our second night here at Advanced Base Camp at 5300 meters. It’s an absolutely stunningly beautiful day today without a cloud in the sky, no wind. We did a load carry to Camp 1 at 5800 meters yesterday and we’re going to move ourselves to Camp 1 today and slowly start making our way up the mountain. Everyone is feeling fine, everyone’s happy, we’re all good and that’s about it. I will call in in a few days time with some more news. Bye.

Dispatches

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it