Dear Everestnews Readers, This is Jay Reilly writing to you from Kathmandu.
When you last heard from me, we had just returned to Basecamp from 6000m Camp
2. The route to Camp 3 was not yet in and we had nowhere to go but down.
The plan was to remain in BC until our climbing sherpas
could fix the route to Camp 3. Sadly, when they returned to Camp 2, they found
collapsed tents, broken under the weight of approximately 1.5 meters of new
snow. It also meant that there was no way they could safely climb the route to
Camp 3 and fix the new rope. In fact they tried, but they soon discovered
crampons don't work when there is half a metre of new snow covering blue ice,
and they were slipping dangerously. A Korean team had been on the mountain
some 2 weeks before and had fixed new line, but due to the extreme thaw/freeze
cycle, their rope was encased underneath 6-8 inches of blue ice and could not
be climbed on.
Due to the fact that the rope could not be fixed, and the
upper mountain conditions were not at all safe, we, along with a Spanish and
Italian team - each led by UIAGM Guides, decided to rest a few days in
Basecamp, then return to Kathmandu.
Summitclimb's policy is :- Safety. Fun. Summit.
We certainly achieved 2 of the 3! Everyone was safe and
certainly everyone had a lot of fun! Thanks to Harius, Simon, Magnus, Harry
and Hugh for making this expedition a great one!
Thank you very much for following our expedition.
From Jay Reilly on behalf of Summitclimb.com
Jay reports in live: calling to update the Ama Dablam Spring Expedition for
SummitClimb. We’ve actually had to descend to Base Camp from Camp 2. We were
in Camp 2 for a night. The weather here is particularly bad. We’re getting
fresh snow everyday and we’re encountering quite an unusual problem in that
every time we fix rope, 24 hours later the ropes are encased under 4-6 inches
of ice. We’re just going to hang down here in Base Camp for a couple of days
and wait and see what the weather does and we’re going to try to go back up to
Camp 2 maybe in two days’ time. So we’ll just have to see how it goes. Other
than that we’re all well, and more news shortly. Bye.
Jay reports in live:
Hi there this is Jay Reilly updating the latest news for the
SummitClimb International Ama Dablam Spring Expedition. It’s first thing
in the morning here, so forgive me if I sound a little bit croaky. We’ve
just spent our second night here at Advanced Base Camp at 5300 meters.
It’s an absolutely stunningly beautiful day today without a cloud in the
sky, no wind. We did a load carry to Camp 1 at 5800 meters yesterday and
we’re going to move ourselves to Camp 1 today and slowly start making
our way up the mountain. Everyone is feeling fine, everyone’s happy,
we’re all good and that’s about it. I will call in in a few days time
with some more news. Bye.
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.