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Dan Mazur reports in Live:
Hi, this is Dan calling from SummitClimb's Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today
is April 23, and it is 5:40pm local time. Seven of us are in Camp 1 with four
of our Sherpas. One of our members, Mark, is down in Base Camp. He has a cold.
He's gonna rest for a day and try to come up again on Wednesday with his
Sherpa, Lakpa Chiri. We just spoke to him on the radio and he's about to have
his dinner and he's doing alright. We also have two other Sherpas up in Camp 2
preparing the camp. The 11 of us here in Camp 1 plan to walk to Camp 2
tomorrow and we'll send you another dispatch when we get there. Thank you very
much, bye bye.

ps. photo caption: in the
attached photo, taken in our computer tent, Lhotse member Bruce Manning
(left) glowers at the obnoxious cameraman, while Lhotse member Philip
Ling (right) busily types this dispatch. In the background, between the two,
is a pile of rope destined for our forthcoming ascent of the Lhotse
coulouir.
This is Philip Ling with the
latest news from the Summitclimb Everest / Lhotse expedition 2007. On the 4th
of April 2007 Bruce Manning and Philip Ling, along with Lakpa Kongle Sherpa
flew from Kathmandu to Lukla and began our 8 day trek to Everest Base Camp.
This is a very pleasant trek, and relatively easy. Along the way we
stopped at some amazing villages and met some very friendly locals, not to
mention monks, lamas and yaks!
On the 11th of April we arrived at Everest Base Camp at 5350m and met Dan
Mazur and the other members of our combined Everest/Lhotse expedition. The
following day we all trekked to Pumori ABC at 5800m to spend the night,
and to further our acclimatisation without having to enter the treacherous
Khumbu Icefall more than necessary. From Pumori ABC we awoke to the most
spectacular views of the Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse massif.
On the 14th of April we arose early, had some breakfast and at 5.00am
accompanied by our amazing team of extremely strong Sherpas, made our first
foray into the Khumbu Icefall. Vast quantities of snow accumulate in the huge
horseshoe shaped bowl formed by Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse known as the
Western Cwm. This snow compacts under its own sheer weight, and in combination
with a continous melting and re-freezing process, eventually turns to ice,
which slowly flows down the hill towards the open end of the horseshoe. As the
ice falls over the edge of the bowl, it fractures and breaks up into huge
pieces, many the sizes of houses! This large
collection of randomly shaped blocks of ice is known as the Khumbu Icefall and
must be navigated by climbers attempting Everest or Lhotse from the Southern
side, and is the original route of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Everest
Base Camp is situated on the lower part of the Khumbu Icefall/ Glacier.
After about 7 hours of continuous up and around, crossing wobbly
ladders strung across bottomless crevasses, passing huge blocks of ice scewed
at improbable angles and defying the laws of gravity, and crossing more
crevass fields, we finally reached Camp 1 situated at 6000m at the lower end
of the Western Cwm. It was a beautiful afternoon, which we spent gazing at the
magnificent surroundings. After a nights rest at Camp 1 we continued the climb
through the Western Cwm until we reached Camp 2 at 6400m, where we spent a few
hours acclimatizing before returning to Camp 1 to sleep another night. The
following morning we descended through the icefall back to Everest Base Camp.
We are currently resting here at Everest Base Camp for a few more days, and
then we will climb back to Camp 1 and sleep the night, then to Camp 2 and
sleep the night, and then climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 at 7300m for an
acclimatization foray, before either returning to Camp 1 or Camp 2 to sleep or
descending all the way back to Base Camp.
All members are doing well, and we will send some more news soon, so stay
tuned!
Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com.
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Dispatches
Dan Mazur who has reached the
summit of 7 of the world's highest mountains, including Everest and K2, and
has led and/or organized expeditions to more than 60 Himalayan, African, and
South American peaks will return to Everest again in 2007. Below is some
information on this Everest / Lhotse expeditions.
EVEREST - NEPAL The original
first-ascent route. Places are still available in our 2007 expedition. Full
Service price reduced to: $26,450. Expedition leader Dan Mazur. Leading
Everest climbs since 1991. 29 March to 6 June, 2007 and 2008.
Often spelled: "Chomolangma",
"Sagarmatha", "Qomolungma", "Chomolungma", "Qomolongma", "Chomolongma", "Qomolangma".
The most coveted peak in the
world from the easiest route, with the highest chance of success.

From left to right: Everest,
Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.
We provide generous discounts for
groups of two or more.
When you see the high level of
service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost
is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.
29
March to 6 June, 68 days in Nepal in 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Daniel Mazur on the summit
of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off
YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and
Kangchenjunga in the Backround. (Photo:
Roman Giutashvili)
The route first climbed by Tenzing
and Hillary in 1953

Arnold Coster
from Rotterdam, our leader in advanced basecamp at 5600 metres (Roland Debare).
Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp
(J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at
Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma).
A meeting on the roof of our
hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our
trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary
Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600
metres (Dan Mazur).

One of our nine excellent
cooks, brewing up another fine meal. (DL Mazur).
Ryan Waters on the summit, wearing
one of our oxygen sets. Team member and Sherpa oxygen supplies cached in the
storage tent in ABC. All of our oxygen is hand checked and the bottles, masks,
hoses, and regulators are carefully matched. We guarantee 100 percent of our
oxygen to work perfectly. Any oxygen bottles and equipment unused will be
repurchased for 70 percent of what you payed. On the far right of the photo,
you can see our hot water hand washing water reservoir and soap, where
everyone washes their hands before each meal, in order to maintain good
hygiene (Ryan Waters).

Descending the fixed lines
from the summit. Most accidents occur on descent. Its a time for the utmost
concentration and good hydration and nutrition. This is when you find out how
fit you really are (Ryan Waters).
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Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)
Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south
(Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in
1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year.
Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.
This expedition to Everest
maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a
strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other
8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese
officials who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to
the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and
office staff.
Detailed Description
The trip begins in the
ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally
meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport. You stay in a comfortable,
simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and
Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense. During our free day in
Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for
trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th
century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings
Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.
Early the following
morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,
and porters. If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend
the night. For
our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of
the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos,
please visit our Everest trek site:
Everest Trek.

Trekking in the
Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob
Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests.
(DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp
(DL Mazur).
We will continue our trek
up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we
rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a
night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization
day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After
resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin
our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu
Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our
first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a
tasty dinner, prepared by our skilled cooks.

Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp.
(DL Mazur). On the South Col of
Everest (Gennady Kopieka)
Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to
its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the
Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres
during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing
at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).
Through the following
weeks, we will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route,
establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our
acclimatization level.
From camp 1 at 6000 metres,
the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200
metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the
Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp,
and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place.
We take our time, climbing up and
down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety
and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather
windows" which generally open in May.
The route to the summit
winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle.
These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock
here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often
placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and
the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the
world's most classic mountain.
Welcome to our team!
Looking up
at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the
Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary
Step (DL Mazur)
.
The view
from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many
others (DL Mazur)
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SUGGESTED
DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB
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1. |
Arrive Kathmandu (1,300
meters). Hotel. |
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2. |
In Kathmandu; visit temples;
city tour; shopping. Hotel. |
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3. |
Fly to Lukla (2860m). Walk to
Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping. |
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4. |
Walk to Namche Bazaar
(3446m). Teahouse or camping. |
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5. |
Rest and acclimatization in
Namche. Teahouse or camping. |
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6. |
Walk to Pangboche (3757m).
Teahouse or camping. |
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7. |
Walk to Pheriche (4250m).
Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping. |
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8. |
Walk to Dugla (4620m).
Teahouse or camping. |
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9. |
Walk to Lobuche (4930m).
Teahouse or camping. |
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10. |
Walk to Gorak Shep (5140m).
Teahouse or camping. |
|
11. |
Walk to basecamp (5300m). |
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12. |
Rest, organization, and
training day in basecamp. |
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13. |
Rest, organization, and
training day in basecamp. |
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14. |
Climb partway to camp 1 at
5800 metres. Return to basecamp. |
|
15. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
16. |
Climb to camp 1 at 5800
metres. Return to basecamp. |
|
17. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
18. |
Climb to Camp 1, sleep there. |
|
19. |
Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres,
return to camp 1, sleep there. |
|
20. |
Return to basecamp. |
|
21. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
22. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
23. |
Walk to camp 1, sleep there. |
|
24. |
Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there. |
|
25. |
Rest in camp 2. |
|
26. |
Explore route to Camp 3
(7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
27. |
Return to basecamp. |
|
28. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
29. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
30. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
31. |
Walk to camp 1, sleep there. |
|
32. |
Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there. |
|
33. |
Rest in camp 2. |
|
34. |
Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there. |
|
35. |
Explore route to camp 4 at
8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there. |
|
36. |
Return to basecamp. |
|
37. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
38. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
39. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
40. |
Walk to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
41. |
Rest in camp 2. |
|
42. |
Walk to camp 3, sleep there. |
|
43. |
Walk to camp 4, sleep there. |
|
44. |
Attempt summit. |
|
45. |
Attempt summit. |
|
46. |
Return to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
47. |
Return to basecamp. |
|
48. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
49. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
50. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
51. |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
52. |
Walk to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
53. |
Walk to camp 3, sleep there. |
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54. |
Walk to camp 4, sleep there. |
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55. |
Attempt summit. |
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56. |
Attempt summit. |
|
57. |
Return to camp 2. |
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58. |
Pack up camp 2. |
|
59. |
Return to basecamp. |
|
60. |
Pack up basecamp. |
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61. |
Pack up basecamp. |
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62. |
Trek down to Pheriche. Camp. |
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63. |
Trek down to Pangboche.
Teahouse or camping. |
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64. |
Trek to Namche, Teahouse or
camping. |
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65. |
Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or
camping. |
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66. |
Flight to Kathmandu. Hotel. |
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67. |
Extra day in Kathmandu, in
case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping. Hotel. |
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68. |
Fly Home. Thanks for joining
our expedition! |
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handle a myriad of different climbing pursuits, the Ultralight Universal
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Points: 10.
See more here. |
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