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  Mt. Everest 2007: SummitClimb Nepal Everest / Lhotse: with a special update on Fausto destafani and Sergio martini


hello, I have attached a photo here of the Italian team who came to our base camp to visit and drop off their cargo today; and our base camp sirdar kaji. are you able to see it? this photo was taken in our base camp a few minutes ago. from left to right, appearing in the photo are:

Roberto manni

Fausto destafani

kaji tamang

Sergio martini

only a few days ago, the Italians sadly lost their sherpa Dawa while he was climbing the Lhotse face and killed by a piece of falling ice. may god rest his soul.

kaji, who is our base camp sirdar, has kindly agreed to give the Italians the use of two of our sherpas to help them re-establish themselves on the mountain after their tragic loss.

kaji is no stranger to tragedy. as a high altitude climbing sherpa he was nearly killed in 1999 in an avalanche on Kangchenjunga when his knee was completely dislocated and his foot came up and hit him in the chin. since then he has had several surgeries, but has not been able to climb since. nevertheless he has became a hell of a base camp sirdar and we are deeply indebted to him. out of gratitude for his selfless service to foreign climbers we are putting his three children through school, and his son lakpa has just earned his bachelor's degree.

Earlier: This is Lhotse member Daniel kim sending his greetings from Everest base camp. Today is Saturday and the main group has just arrived from several days acclimatizing at camp number two, about 6400 meters. The weather has been fairly good, with sunny mornings and the usual afternoon light snow, although it has been pretty windy lately. Mark and his personal sherpa are now at camp 2.

Everest basecamp has changed somewhat since we arrived around april 7. The melting and shifting of the underlying glacier has remolded and rearranged the terrain noticeably. Also more teams have arrived to establish their camps. There could be over 400 tents here now. Large British and Korean groups are here, among many nationalities.

We plan to spend several days resting here in basecamp, cleaning up and washing clothes before we again depart for about one week on the next round of acclimatization. This will likely see us spending up to two nights sleeping at camp three, which has not yet been fully established, but will likely be about 7200 – 7400 meters. Then after returning to basecamp to rest, the first summit attempt will ensue.

We have three everest climbers, and four lhotse climbers. The two groups will follow the same path to camp three, and then the routes diverge before camp four.

Everyone here is doing well and in good spirits. The cooperation and teamwork has continued.We are all saddened by the tragedy at the Lhotse face 2 days ago. Our sherpas have been fantastic. Without them, nothing would be possible.

The death of any sherpa on any team is a moment of sadness and loss shared by all climbers on this side of everest. 

Best regards to all who read this, we are well and doing fine.

Daniel J. Kim

This is Philip Ling with the latest news from the Summitclimb Everest/Lhotse expedition 2007.

Our combined Everest/Lhotse team is currently back in Basecamp after our latest acclimatisation round up the mountain.

On the 23rd of April we departed basecamp and climbed through the Khumbu Icefall again to Camp 1 at 6000m, where we spent the night. As usual the route was different to our previous foray due to the ice constantly shifting. This keeps things interesting! Mark felt unwell and returned to basecamp along with his personal Sherpa, Lhakpa Chiri.

The following morning we all climbed to Camp 2 at 6400m, where we spent the night. The next morning Dan Mazur, Philip Ling, Bruce Manning and Bill Burke climbed to the Bergshrund at the base of the Lhotse face at around 6700m as an acclimatisation hike in preparation for climbing to Camp 3 at 7350m the following morning. We looked in awe at this sheer wall of blue ice towering 2000 vertical metres above us and the Western Cwm before returning to Camp 2 to sleep.

The next morning the whole team arose early and climbed back up towards the Bergshrund, this time with the intention of climbing the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 at 7350m. As we approached the Bergshrund I learned that there had been an accident involving a Sherpa. Within minutes I was at the scene. It was very evident that the Sherpa had suffered a massive head trauma caused by a falling block of ice or rock from above. Kenton Cool and Sergio were already there and had dragged the body away from the fixed ropes. I helped clean up the bloody mess at the base of the fixed ropes and to cover the body with snow. Out of respect for the dead Sherpa and the wishes of our own team of Sherpas, who like all Sherpa people are very superstitous, we decided not to proceed to Camp 3 that day and returned to Camp 2. The following morning it had started snowing and the winds had increased, so we decided to forgo our acclimatisation hike to Camp 3 and return instead to Basecamp. On the way down we met Mark who had since recovered from his illness and his Sherpa Lhakpa climbing up to Camp 2. They are currently still in Camp 2 acclimatising.

We plan to rest here in basecamp for a few more days before heading up the mountain again. We will climb to Camp 3, spend the night there and the following morning do an acclimatisation hike towards 8000m, then spend another night in Camp 3 before descending back to basecamp. With our acclimatisation program complete, we will rest again before heading up a final time for the summit push. Keep following along!

Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com

Dispatches

Dan Mazur who has reached the summit of 7 of the world's highest mountains, including Everest and K2, and has led and/or organized expeditions to more than 60 Himalayan, African, and South American peaks will return to Everest again in 2007. Below is some information on this Everest / Lhotse expeditions.

EVEREST - NEPAL The original first-ascent route. Places are still available in our 2007 expedition. Full Service price reduced to: $26,450. Expedition leader Dan Mazur. Leading Everest climbs since 1991. 29 March to 6 June, 2007 and 2008.

Often spelled: "Chomolangma", "Sagarmatha", "Qomolungma", "Chomolungma", "Qomolongma", "Chomolongma", "Qomolangma".

The most coveted peak in the world from the easiest route, with the highest chance of success. 

From left to right: Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.

We provide generous discounts for groups of two or more.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

29 March to 6 June, 68 days in Nepal in 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Daniel Mazur on the summit of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and Kangchenjunga in the Backround. (Photo: Roman Giutashvili)

The route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953

Arnold Coster from Rotterdam, our leader in advanced basecamp at 5600 metres (Roland Debare). Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma). A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600 metres (Dan Mazur).

One of our nine excellent cooks, brewing up another fine meal. (DL Mazur).

   

Ryan Waters on the summit, wearing one of our oxygen sets. Team member and Sherpa oxygen supplies cached in the storage tent in ABC. All of our oxygen is hand checked and the bottles, masks, hoses, and regulators are carefully matched. We guarantee 100 percent of our oxygen to work perfectly. Any oxygen bottles and equipment unused will be repurchased for 70 percent of what you payed. On the far right of the photo, you can see our hot water hand washing water reservoir and soap, where everyone washes their hands before each meal, in order to maintain good hygiene (Ryan Waters).

Descending the fixed lines from the summit. Most accidents occur on descent. Its a time for the utmost concentration and good hydration and nutrition. This is when you find out how fit you really are (Ryan Waters).

Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)  

Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.

This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system.  We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport.   You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense.  During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,  and porters.  If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Everest trek site: Everest Trek.

              

Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner,  prepared by our skilled cooks.  

  

Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp. (DL Mazur). On the South Col of Everest (Gennady Kopieka)

          

Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).

Through the following weeks, we  will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. We take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the world's most classic mountain.  Welcome to our team!

            

Looking up at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary Step  (DL Mazur)

The view from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others  (DL Mazur) .


SUGGESTED DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB

1. Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).  Hotel.
2. In Kathmandu; visit temples; city tour; shopping.  Hotel.
3. Fly to Lukla (2860m).  Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4. Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  Teahouse or camping.
5. Rest and acclimatization in Namche.  Teahouse or camping.
6. Walk to Pangboche (3757m).  Teahouse or camping.
7. Walk to Pheriche (4250m).  Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8. Walk to Dugla (4620m).  Teahouse or camping.
9. Walk to Lobuche (4930m).  Teahouse or camping.
10. Walk to Gorak Shep (5140m). Teahouse or camping.
11. Walk to basecamp (5300m).
12. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
13. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
14. Climb partway to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
15. Rest in basecamp.
16. Climb to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
17. Rest in basecamp.
18. Climb to Camp 1, sleep there.
19. Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres, return  to camp 1, sleep there.
20. Return to basecamp.
21. Rest in basecamp.
22. Rest in basecamp.
23. Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
24. Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
25. Rest in camp 2.
26. Explore route to Camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
27. Return to basecamp.
28. Rest in basecamp.
29. Rest in basecamp.
30. Rest in basecamp.
31. Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
32. Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
33. Rest in camp 2.
34. Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there.
35. Explore route to camp 4 at 8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there.
36. Return to basecamp.
37. Rest in basecamp.
38. Rest in basecamp.
39. Rest in basecamp.
40. Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
41. Rest in camp 2.
42. Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
43. Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
44. Attempt summit.
45. Attempt summit.
46. Return to camp 2, sleep there.
47. Return to basecamp.
48. Rest in basecamp.
49. Rest in basecamp.
50. Rest in basecamp.
51. Rest in basecamp.
52. Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
53. Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
54. Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
55. Attempt summit.
56. Attempt summit.
57. Return to camp 2.
58. Pack up camp 2.
59. Return to basecamp.
60. Pack up basecamp.
61. Pack up basecamp.
62. Trek down to Pheriche. Camp.
63. Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
64. Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
65. Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
66. Flight to Kathmandu.  Hotel.
67. Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.  Hotel.
68. Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!

 

 

 

 

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